Corks & Cleaver Shows Off on the Mississippi Gulf Coast

by Jay Ducote

Chef David Dickensauge used to be a fixture in the Baton Rouge food scene, running the kitchen at Bin 77 with a creative and ever-changing menu as well as participating in numerous charity events by serving up inspired dishes to the crowds. When I got word that he'd be leaving Bin 77 to head to the Mississippi Gulf Coast, I knew it would be the capital city's loss and the coast's gain. 

I recently got a chance to check out his first restaurant in Gulfport, MS, Corks & Cleaver. With only a quick glance of the menu, you can evidently see his flair and flavor profile. A friend and I decided to feast on a sampling of small plates along with a bottle of wine, after all, corks is in the name. 

Coffee Braised Veal Cheeks, Truffled Popcorn Grits, Fermented Greens, Sweet Corn Pudding, Parsnip Volutte

Tender, and packed with flavor, the coffee braised veal cheeks fell apart at the prodding of a fork. That bitterness of the coffee offset the sweetness of the corn while the dish got an acidic bite from the fermented greens. The only thing I would have liked to add to this dish would be a crunch textural element. The grits, greens, corn pudding and veal all had a soft and smooth texture and could have used a snap but the flavors were on point.

Creole Devils on Horseback: Bacon wrapped Boudin and Andouille stuffed Medjool Dates with Piquillo-Tomato Sauce

A staple of Chef Dickensauge's arsenal is the Creole Devils on Horseback. He's made these before, he'll make them again and I'll be happy to eat them every time. Boudin and andouille get stuffed in a sweet Medjool date, then all of that is wrapped in bacon and plated atop a piquillo pepper and tomato sauce. The dish is smoky, porky, sweet, spicy and tangy. I need more.

Duck Confit Beignets, Bok Choy Kimchi, Smoked Date Marmalade, Cayenne Powdered Sugar

We opted for the duck confit beignets as our final small plate, because duck. These crispy, fluffy orbs of fried dough came stuffed with savory duck confit and bok choy kimchi. It's an interesting flavor combination to be sure, but one that works on multiple levels. The tartness from kimchi is just enough to counter the richness from the duck and dough, while the cayenne powdered sugar left just the right amount of sweet and spice.

David Dickensauge's Tres Leches Cake with Blueberries and Blackberries

We had to have something for dessert and our server suggested the tres leches cake. I'm not normally a fan of tres leches as sometimes the textures just don't agree with me, but we were assured that this tres leches cake would live up to the hype.

Earlier this year I had hands down the best panna cotta of my life, and now I can also say that this year I've tried my favorite tres leches cake ever. What Chef David Dickensauge and his team really nailed is the texture. Instead of being a soggy mess, the moist cake held up to the milk and the flavors hit all the right notes.

Hopefully I'll get a chance to get back to Corks & Cleaver at some point. I'm also really excited about Chef David's new seafood restaurant, Brackish. Check it out if you're ever on the Mississippi Gulf Coast!

Jay D's Bites: Smoked CreoleTomato Soup

by Blair Loup

This is not a drill! Chef Aimee Tortorich has concocted the most delicious tomato soup to have ever graced my taste buds. Still processing the loss of the spicy tomato soup at Chelsea's, I have finally found a stand in.

It's spicy, it's smokey and it's everything your grilled cheese sandwich is looking for. If you've got some wood chips and a grill or smoker followed by a few pulses of a blender you're in business! You could also turn your stove top into a smoker if you really wanted. All of these beautiful ingredients can be purchased and sources locally through Indie Plate, a local farm-to doorstep delivery service. Get to ordering and get your soup on!

Smoked Creole Tomato Soup:

Smoked Creole Tomato Soup garnished with Purple Basil

Serves 4-6

2 lbs whole Creole tomatoes
1 tsp red pepper flakes
1 small yellow onion, diced
2 cloves garlic
3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided
1 tsp dried oregano
2 Tbsp purple basil, chopped
Jay D’s Spicy & Sweet BBQ Rub to taste
Kosher Salt and Freshly Ground Black Pepper

Light the smoker and adjust temperature to 250F. Season whole tomatoes with one tablespoon of olive oil, salt and pepper. Smoke until soft (about 30-40 minutes). While tomatoes are smoking, chop onions and garlic. Sauté in olive oil until soft. Season with red pepper flakes, Jay D’s Spicy & Sweet BBQ Rub and dried oregano. Add tomatoes with seasonings and simmer for 15 minutes. Purée in a blender until soft. Finish with purple basil.

Jay D's Bites: Barbecue Bloody Mary

by Blair Loup

I fell in love with Blood Marys at an early age. I wasn't drinking them, but I was helping my dad make the mix. It amazed me at how we could take hum drum bottle of V8 and build this monument of complex flavors. To this day, the taste of a Blood Mary takes me back to simpler times, but just like everything else, our Bloody Marys have changed.

You can buy incredible Bloody Mary mixes on grocery store shelves all around you. They've got all of the levels of flavors that I used to meticulously develop with my dad on our back porch, but what they don't have is Jay D's Louisiana Barbecue Sauce. That's right. It's 2016 and we're putting barbecue sauce in our Bloody Mary mixes.

Jay D's Louisiana Barbecue Bloody Mary:

Bloody Mary made with Louisiana Sisters Bloody Mary Mix, Jay D's Louisiana Barbecue Sauce and Oryza Vodka

Serves 1

6 oz. LA sisters Bloody Mary Mix
2 oz. Oryza Vodka
2 Tbsp Jay D’s Louisiana Barbecue Sauce
Jay D’s Spicy & Sweet BBQ Rub to rim glass

Put Bloody Mary Mix, Vodka and Barbecue Sauce in a tumbler full of ice and shake. Pour into a glass rimmed with Jay D’s BBQ Rub. Garnish with celery, olives, pickled okra and spicy beans. Enjoy!

Tailgate on 12th: Jay Ducote's Tailgate-Inspired James Beard Menu is Heading to the Big Apple

by Blair Loup

It's happening! Team Bite and Booze has officially hit the pavement in the wee morning hours and are on our way to the Big Apple to serve up a tailgating-inspired menu at the James Beard House.

It's taken several months of planning and practicing, but after our preview dinner hosted by the Louisiana Culinary Institute last Friday, I am confident that those who bought tickets to our New York dinner are in for an amazing feast.

Friday night's preview dinner went incredibly smooth. That can be credited, in part, to our amazing team:  Chef Aimee Tortorich, Chef Eusebio Gongora, Chef Shelly Flash, Chuck P and our ever eager intern Drew Broussard, but we could not have pulled it off without the help from the Louisiana Culinary Institute's students, chef instructors and administrative staff who volunteered their time.

I'm happy to say that we had over 100 guests in attendance! We cannot thank those supporters enough. Time and time again, no matter what new venture Jay steers us toward, you're always there to cheer us on and each member of our team appreciates it.

Passed Hors d'Oeuvres:

Red Bean & Rice Balls topped with Jay D's Barbecue Aiolï and Pickled Red Onions

Bacon-Wrapped Duck Breast stuffed with Creole Cream Cheese and Jalapeño

Jay D's Molasses Mustard Deviled Egg topped with Pickled Shrimp, Pickled Mustard Seeds and Serrano

Sweet Potato Chips tossed in Jay D's Spicy & Sweet BBQ Rub topped with Iverstine Family Farms Pork Belly and Blackberry Bourbon Jam

Seated:

Quail and Andouille Gumbo over Louisiana Rice

Crawfish Etoufée smothered Fried Catfish with Stone-Ground Grits and Mustard Greens

Blackened Red Snapper with Cajun Tasso Corn Macquechoux and Jalapeño Relish

Venison Tenderloin with Chimichurri and Okra 3 Ways (stewed, pickled and fried)

Jay's Granny's famous Cinnamon Pecan Rolls

Thanks so much to all of our sponsors for this James Beard Foundation journey:




Additionally, we'd like to thank Indie Plate, Slap Ya Mama, Swamp Pop, Tony's Seafood, the Louisiana Culinary Institute, Caféciteaux, Jay D's and Red Stick Spice Company. We have intentionally incorporated products from these local companies and constantly rely on their help and the support from those who have sponsored our journey, ingredients and beverages for Jay's Tailgate on 12th James Beard Dinner.

Sitting Fat and Happy: A Trip to Fat Cow

by Drew Broussard

After a crazy weekend including preview dinners for the James Beard House and viewing parties for Deep Fried America, team Bite and Booze decided that it was high time to for a "treat yo self" lunch filled with one of our favorite foods: burgers!

Following a little bit of deliberation, we decided that we would take our hungry stomachs over to Fat Cow on Highland Road in order to indulge on our beefy cravings. When I walked into Fat Cow, I couldn’t help but be impressed by their huge selection of burgers and burger styles. First off, you can choose a beef, chicken, mushroom, or salmon patty to be the base of your burger. Secondly, the sheer amount of specialty toppings and combinations you can top off your burger with is deliciously staggering. All in all, there are hundreds of flavor combinations that you could come up with.

Fat Cow on Highland Road.

While a good sandwich is the fundamental pillar for a burger joint, it always helps to be supported by some tasty side items. So, for the sake of food research, we got an order of parmesan duck fat fries, onion straws, and a “Banana Stand,” shake (Arrested Development, anyone?) to go with our meals.

Onion Straws go great on or with your burger!

When we got our food, we wasted little time enjoying our burgers’ juicy goodness. My Baja Burger was topped with pepper jack, salsa, avocado, banana peppers, lettuce and a smoked poblano pepper sour cream. The toppings were light and fresh enough to be perfect compliments to the patty. The acidity from the peppers really stood out, and my mouth was never scorched thanks to the sour cream spread. It's a great summertime burger.

Baja Burger is the perfect summertime grub.

Jay’s Wentworth burger took on a completely different flavor profile. His patty was topped with ham, brie, apples and a red onion marmalade. Those are some bold flavors to put on a burger, but the risk seemed to pay off. The melted brie and the sweetness of the apple made this burger so unique that you’d be hard pressed to find something similar to it in the area.

The Wentworth Burger will take you from the Mississippi to the Seine.

Chuck P., our Product Czar and Saucer of Sales, enjoyed the 120 Burger. This sandwich was strong with flavors, as it had gruyere, bacon, caramelized onions and a horseradish mayonnaise. Chuck seemed to really dig the mayo because it packed a punch! Combining that flavor with the gruyere helped transport this burger to the specialty category.

The 120 Burger brings it with Horseradish Mayo.

While all of these sandwiches have been pretty adventurous in the toppings department, Fat Cow still delivered with a classic burger staple. Chef Aimee Tortorich got a Smoke Stack Burger that she said nailed all of the key components. It had a good barbecue sauce, succulent bacon and crispy fried onions that did a great job of adding texture.

And while we all chowed down on the greasy goodness that was in front of us, Blair, our Chief Confusion Coordinator, took the lighter route as she enjoyed the Catahoula Cobb salad with grilled salmon on top. This is a bleu cheese-lovers dream, having both crumbles and a vinaigrette with bleu mixed in. Blair made note of how well the salmon was cooked, and that all of the flavors really complimented each other.

The Catahoula Cobb with Grilled Salmon is a bleu cheese lover's dream.

And of course we didn't forget about those sides! Fat Cow’s renowned duck fat and Parmesan fries did not disappoint. They were cheesy, savory, and just crispy enough. These guys were truly some top-notch fries. I'm getting hungry again just thinking about them. The onion straws were a great side as well. I found them incredibly addicting, as they were so thinly cut that you could keep on eating away at them. They were also a great little additional topping to my burger. The Banana Stand shake was another hit. While I didn't have much room left to sample a milkshake, Jay took the sacrifice and said that it was a solid summer dessert. It's hard to go wrong with a chocolate, cream and banana trifecta.

Parmesan Duck Fat Fries, need we say more?

It didn't take long for the fries became sparse, the sips turned slurps and we were reaching the end of our lunchtime burger-fest. After a few moments of silent digestion reflection, we all came away incredibly satisfied.

Regardless of toppings, we all commended the beef patty we had on our burgers. It was very juicy and had a steak like flavor that isn't present in your average burger. We also gave a nod to the bun, which we found to be slightly sweet and buttery enough to keep the sandwich from ever drying out. It might take about a week before I feel the rumbling pangs of hunger in my stomach, but I know that it won’t be long before I return to Fat Cow.

One more for good measure!