North African Appetite: A Private Dinner at Red Stick Spice Co.

by Paige Johannessen

Jay Ducote along with Commander in Chef of Gov't Taco, Aimee Tortorich, hosted another sold out four course dinner at Red Stick Spice Company in August. Using Red Stick Co.'s high quality spices and oils, they took guests on a culinary adventure through North African cuisine.

The room was set up beautifully, including a gorgeous display of spices laid out for the guests to fawn at. Now that we have had a few repeat customers to our pop up dinners at Red Stick Spice Co. they know the drill and are arriving before we can even pour the first glass of wine. This gives them time to shop around the store and watch as Chef Aimee Tortorich put the finishing touches on a few of her dishes. 

photo by Red Stick Spice Co.

To start the evening off we had plates of warm lamb meatballs served over a delicate but full flavored mint yogurt dipping sauce. The lamb was soft and juicy and the flavors set off by the mint prepared the guests for a savory evening. To compliment this earthy appetizer were glasses of Jay D's Blanc Du Bois for our guests to sip on. 

Once everyone had a chance to try the lamb and grab a glass of wine or two, it was time to be seated. Jay started off the dinner service with a brief introduction  and then the plates starting rolling out! For the first course, a procession of carrots roasted with oranges and dates, garnished with chickpeas and crumbled pistachios came marching out to the guests. This warm and robust dish paired nicely with a spicy glass of Pinot Noir.

photo by Red Stick Spice Co.

Next, for the main course was the beef short rib tagine. This crowd favorite was visibly tender and the aroma of ginger and fig wafted from the plates. The short rib was served with a delicate scoop of couscous, and garnished with peanuts. To compliment the subtle fruit notes of this dish was a full glass of Syrah for all to enjoy.

Last but certainly not least came the most artistic and sweet dish of the night. Chef arranged small sculptures of milk bastilla, a thin cinnamon dusted pastry layered into stacks and drizzled with a custard like cream. Hidden between the layers of crunchy pastry were cloves and apricots, and crunchy pine nuts were sprinkled on top to finish it off. 

Blair prepared a warm rougaroux spiked cocoa with homemade marshmallows from Counter Space BR to be served with this decadent dessert. 

photo by Red Stick Spice Co.

Once again, we were thrilled to see a room full of empty plates and satisfied taste buds. We can not wait to be back at Red Stick Spice Co. this month for a special TWO night seating of our Modern Italian Mangia four course dinner on September 26th and 27th. Join us before it sells out!

Spaghetti & Gravy: Not Your Mom's Red Sauce

by Marit Schroeder

Although Louisiana food is best known for unique flavors, there are more food styles than just Cajun and Creole.

Independence, a little town in Southeast Louisiana, started as an Italian-American community with many families coming from the island of Sicily. Now famous for its Sicilian Heritage Festival every March, the town is still working hard to remember their roots.

My family roots come from Independence, and we do our best to honor our ancestors by cooking. When my great-grandparents wanted to remember where they came from, they got together with other people in town to make a red gravy-- the Sicilian version of red spaghetti sauce. While there’s no significant difference between red gravy and red sauce, most Sicilian Americans will agree that the correct vocab is important!

I had a really fun time talking to my mom and grandmother about our family history and getting involved in the cooking process. I’ve grown up eating spaghetti and gravy around three times a month and it continues to be a big affair that involves friends and family coming over for dinner. Usually when we have family dinners though, it can take an extra push to convince my grandmother and great aunts that we aren’t tired of spaghetti so they will cook it again. 

Spaghetti and Meatballs with Red Gravy

Serves 12-18

Red Gravy:
2 medium onions, chopped
2 Tbs. olive oil
4 (12 oz.) cans tomato paste
8 (12 oz.) cans warm water
1 ½ tbsp. salt
½ tsp. pepper
3 Tbs. sugar
1 tsp. basil (optional)
Dried spaghetti or linguine
Water

Meatballs:
2 lb. ground sirloin
2 eggs, beaten
1 tsp. salt
½ tsp. pepper
Garlic powder (optional)
2 Tbsp. dried parsley
1 cup hard breadcrumbs, moistened

½ cups Romano cheese, grated

Gravy: Sauté onions in heavy pot in olive oil. Add tomato paste. Fry mixture at medium temperature for 10-15 minutes. Stir frequently so that the tomato paste does not burn or stick. Add water and mix. Add salt, pepper, sugar and basil. Bring to a boil then reduce heat. Cover and simmer for 90 minutes, stirring occasionally. Adjust seasoning after 60 minutes. If sauce is too thick, add water one cup at a time to desired thickness.

Meatballs: Preheat oven to 375. In a large mixing bowl add ground sirloin, eggs, salt, pepper, garlic powder and parsley. Soak hard bread in water. Squeeze water from bread and separate bread into small fine pieces. Add this and Romano cheese into beef mixture. Shape beef mixture into 18-24 meatballs, which are tacky. Arrange meatballs on a baking pan with a rack. Put in preheated oven for 15-20 minutes or until all sides are brown. Drain well and add browned meatballs to sauce. Leave sauce and meatballs at simmer for another 30-45 minutes.

Anthony's Italian Deli Glows on Government!

Anythony's famous muffoletta

For years now I've raved about the muffoletta at Anthony’s Italian Deli. An elegant combination of olive salad, mortadella, salami, mozzarella, ham, and provolone sandwiched between round Sicilian sesame bread, the muffoletta might just be the perfect sandwich. In fact, Country Roads Magazine named it the best sandwich in Baton Rouge in their "Favorite Things" issue a few years back. But just to clarify, I was the guys who picked the five finalists.

Anthony’s take on the classic Italian-style sandwich has won over the tastebuds of Baton Rougeans for more than 30 years, cementing its place as a local staple. Aside from the famous muffoletta, Anthony’s serves up my other favorite sandwich - the life-altering meatball poboy (the large version is served on the muffoletta bread), along with a variety of other sandwiches and traditional Italian dishes.

New, roomier storefront

Earlier this week I checked out Anthony's new digs on Government Street in mid-city with my Chief Confusion Coordinator Blair and our new intern, Sydney. The new location is reminiscent of the old Florida Boulevard location in some ways, and worlds apart in others. Gone is the plywood sign on the side of Florida's service road painted in the colors of the Italian flag. No longer must you navigate a suspension-loathing parking lot as far to the back as possible, uncomfortably if it is your first time. But just like the old spot, the smell of olives and fresh bread overwhelm the senses, and the cozy atmosphere welcomes lunchers and shoppers alike to take part in an Italian tradition. Cannoli shells and imported olive oils line the walls. A hand-written menu lists the house specialties. Chairs and tables are packed in like canned Italian anchovies. At just before noon, the lunch line nearly snakes out the door.

New mid-city location

The most notable change in Anthony’s is the slightly larger kitchen and dining area, and the patio area that will be nice come Spring. By the look of things, the new Anthony’s will have more business than they know what to do with. On my visit, a team of people gathered in the front part of the kitchen with Maria taking orders, making pressed sandwiches, and delivering meals. Marco waved through an opening to the back kitchen where he donned a chef coat and looked as pleased as ever. After eating our sandwiches, a muffoletta and a large meatball poboy, Team Bite and Booze looked as pleased as ever too. The restaurant might be new, but the food hasn't changed, and for long-time fans like me, that's what matters most.

Barbecue Bites: Jay D's Louisiana Barbecue Meatballs

Jay D's Louisiana Barbecue Meatballs

Meatballs are the successful party's unsung hero. The bold and complex flavors of Jay D's Louisiana Barbecue Sauce united with the fresh, local grass-fed ground beef from Indie Plate and the zesty notes of Red Stick Spice Company's Burger Blend will rock these party meatballs like you wouldn't believe.

Jay D's Louisiana Barbecue Meatballs

Makes 2 to 3 dozen, 1 inch meatballs

1 lb. lean ground beef
9 oz. apricot pepper jelly
12 oz. Jay D's Louisiana Barbecue Sauce
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 large onion, minced
1 tsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. Baton Rouge Burger Blend (Red Stick Spice Co.)

Preheat oven to 350F.
Saute onion with olive oil in a small saute pan and set aside to cool. Mix ground beef, egg, onion, and Burger Blend spice and form 1 inch meatballs on sheetpan. Bake for 10 minutes or until meatballs are slightly browned. Mix together barbecue sauce and pepper jelly in a saucepan and begin to simmer. Add meatballs to sauce and continue to simmer for 15 minutes.

225: Into the Mix Episode 7 - Anthony's Italian Deli

Anybody who ever asks me anything about hole-in-the-wall restaurants in Baton Rouge will hear me rave about Anthony's Italian Deli. I highlighted their muffaletta for Town Favorites magazine years ago when Bite and Booze first started. Country Roads magazine readers selected Anthony's muffaletta as the best sandwich in Baton Rouge in the 2012 Favorite Things issue after I got to name my top five. And now for 225, I return to Anthony's Italian Deli to try something new. The large meatball poboy is built on muffaletta bread and has a signature homemade red sauce that you really need to try! Check out what goes into the mix, then head down Florida Boulevard to try it for yourself!

In case you missed them:
225: Into the Mix Episode 1 - Mason's Grill
225: Into the Mix Episode 2 - Magpie Cafe
225: Into the Mix Episode 3 - Juban's Creole Restaurant
225: Into the Mix Episode 4 - Pastime and Tin Roof
225: Into the Mix Episode 5 - Fresh Truck
225: Into the Mix Episode 6 - Into the ReMix

225: Into the Mix is a project from 225 Magazine's Dine Newsletter, tommysTV, and Bite and Booze. I'd like to especially thank Manda Fine Meats and the Paretti Family of Dealerships for their sponsorship of the series that helped make everything happen.

Hosted by Jay Ducote
Produced by Jay Ducote and Tommy Talley
Director of Photography: Dan Jones
Editor: Josh Carley
Audio: Michael Lane
Graphics by Elbow|Room
Production Assistant: Dustin Davis

Emeril says I'm a Big Boy

Big Boy Spaghetti and Meatballs caught my eye the moment I opened Emeril Lagasse's new cookbook Sizzling Skillets and Other One-Pot Wonders.  Knowing that I'd be blogging about at least nine of the recipes as part of the promotion, I had a good feeling that the meatballs would eventually make their way onto Bite and Booze.  Hey, there was red wine in the sauce after all!  After securing the ingredients I needed from Calandro's Supermarket I took to my kitchen to make some meatballs.

The balls themselves included ground beef, Italian sausage, parsley, Parmesan, garlic, salt, pepper and some buttermilk-soaked bread.  After mixing all the ingredients together I formed them into balls and stuck it in the refrigerator to help them take shape.  From there it was straight to a hot skillet with olive oil to brown off the meatballs followed by building the flavors in the sauce.

The sauce came out highly acidic but Emeril had a cure for that.  In his recipe he notes that if the sauce is too acidic you should add some evaporated milk.  I ended up adding about half a can, not two tablespoons, but it certainly did the trick.  The sauce worked out pretty well and meatballs were definitely enjoyable.  I could definitely see doing some different takes on this recipe in the future!

Red Stick Red Sauce: Spaghetti and Meatballs in Baton Rouge

This article has been published in the October 2010 issue of Town Favorites Magazine. You can visit the Town Favorites website at http://www.townfavorites.com/, follow them on Twitter @TownFavorites, and find their magazines at over 150 restaurants and businesses around Baton Rouge! Pick up a copy today!

Red Stick Red Sauce: Spaghetti and Meatballs in Baton Rouge

by Jay D. Ducote

Baton Rouge may not be well known for its Italian food.  The capital city is more renowned for its Cajun influences, seafood, and its Greek and Lebanese scene than it is for true Italian.  Sure, you can find some great locally owned pizza joints, but they don’t quite do the trick when you are really after the perfect plate of Italian red sauce.  However, it doesn’t take too much searching around before you find some local chefs that really know their pastas.  Indeed, the quintessential Italian dish to try before all else is spaghetti and meatballs.  If you find an Italian restaurant that makes a satisfactory tomato sauce, or “red gravy”, and an equally delicious seasoned meatball, chances are you’ll like the rest of their menu as well.  If the spaghetti and meatballs fall short of your expectations, then heed the warning that you may not enjoy the lasagna or eggplant parmesan either.

Baton Rouge’s long standing icon of Italian cuisine is Gino’s Restaurant.  The establishment is hidden off of College Drive but everybody who knows food in Baton Rouge knows exactly where to find it.  They have often been voted by multiple polls and publications as the best Italian food in the city, so I thought it would be only natural to start there for some meatballs.

My trip to Gino’s involved a dinner to celebrate my birthday.  My brother Eric, sister Dana, father Jere, and his significant other Donna came along with me to indulge in the rich Italian sauces.  Everybody ordered their own thing, but I made certain to put in an order of spaghetti and meatballs as an appetizer for the table to share.  Gino Marino, the proprietor, chatted with me about the restaurant and the meatballs for a few minutes.  The meatballs themselves are the same recipe that dates back over 40 years and are still hand rolled by Grace “Mama” Marino.  Vincent and Grace Marino came to the United States from Sicily with their children in 1951.  The restaurant was first established on Perkins Road in 1966 but moved to its current Bennington Avenue location in 1975.  To this day, Gino’s is still 100% family owned and operated which is something that I really like when seeking out a restaurant.

Spaghetti and Meatballs at Gino's

The dimly lit dining room provided a lovely atmosphere for an evening of edible enjoyment.  We soon had salads, some wine, and a couple loaves of the famous Laurence Bread as we waited on the meatballs.  Gino’s red sauce is a slightly sweet marinara that tastes great while not overpowering the dish like some sweeter sauces can do.  The spaghetti had an ideal noodle texture for meatballs.  Sometimes I like an al dente noodle, but with meatballs thoroughly cooked pasta is preferable.  Finally, the meatball itself had excellent flavor and one could tell it had been crafted with love by Mama Marino.  All of the main ingredients combined masterfully on the plate to create a dish that made we want to sample more of Gino’s cuisine.  The spaghetti and meatballs easily passed my “first course at an Italian restaurant” test.

Maggio's Delicatessen and Catering

Switching gears from Gino’s, I tried to find a new Italian spot that also did things the right way.  Baton Rouge has a handful of good, local, established restaurants with Italian dishes such as Pinetta’s, DiGiulio Brothers, Monjuni’s, and Ruffino’s; but I wanted to get off the beaten path.  On Old Hammond Highway I found Chef and Restaurateur Mark Maggio at his newly opened Maggio’s Delicatessen and Catering.  Mark is no stranger to the Baton Rouge food scene.  He used to own and operate Maggio’s Restaurante downtown where Christina’s now serves breakfasts and lunches.  His new venture, which is only about 12-13 weeks old as of October 1, 2010, is a throwback to his family history.  Mark’s grandparents were born in Sicily and he learned his culinary ways from his mother as she made Sicilian “meatballs and gravy” during his formative years.

Mark and Jay at Maggio's

Maggio’s Delicatessen and Catering serves food out of a renovated house.  The entrance leads you into a room with a deli counter where you can get some Italian staples like lasagna, chicken parmesan, Italian sausages, and more to go.  If you’re eating in, Maggio’s has a few dining areas that are set up in rooms of the old house.  Space is limited, but that only adds to the atmosphere.  You can easily forget you are dining in restaurant and instead escape the hustle and bustle with the sensation that you are eating home-cooked authentic Italian food right there at someone’s home.  In fact, the kitchen is a far cry from most commercial kitchens in modern restaurants since they cook on residential ranges; but that certainly takes nothing way from the output quality. 

Jean prepares the red gravy at Maggio's

As Mark and I discussed his restaurant, he seemed excited that I chose to write this article on spaghetti and meatballs.  He commented, “Your first trip to an Italian restaurant should always include meatballs and gravy.”  He agreed with me on the notion that you can tell everything you need to know by the meatballs and red sauce, so I anxiously anticipated tasting Maggio’s version of the classic dish.  Mark went on to describe what sets his meatballs apart from others.  His all beef meatballs are actually made out of ground steak trimmings from the Ready Portion Meat Company right here in Baton Rouge.  The high-quality ground steak is in excess of the standard 80/20 ground beef to fat ratio.  Added to the ground steak are breadcrumbs, onions, a little cheese, and some other ingredients that Mark didn’t want to let me in on.  I can’t blame him!

Mark’s tomato gravy also uses superior products to deliver a delicious sauce.  His gravy begins with tomato paste that comes from Stanislaus Food Products.  Stanislaus uses fresh-packed California tomatoes that are canned on the line.  The paste distinctly differs from the tomato concentrate that most pastes use.  Once Mark gets the fresh packed tomato paste, he cooks it exactly the same way every time to create his red gravy in a consistent manner. 

Meatballs and Spaghetti at Maggio's Delicatessen and Catering

 The first bite of spaghetti and meatballs at Maggio’s Delicatessen and Catering made me extremely glad that I paid them a visit.  The gravy had an excellent balance between sweet and savory with enough spice to say hello to the tongue but nothing more.  The meatballs may have stolen the show though.  The flavor mixed excellently with the tomato sauce to present the combination which I had eagerly anticipated.  I literally couldn’t put my fork down between bites and could barely talk to Mark anymore once the plate was in front of me because I was too busy stuffing my face.  At only $6.99 for a plate of “Meatballs & Spaghetti” with a dinner salad and bread, this may be one of the better deals in town!     

Gino’s and Maggio’s both do spaghetti and meatballs right.  They start with quality ingredients and they take the time to carefully hand craft the meatballs.  Their tomato sauces differ, but both still reflect the Sicilian roots of their owner’s culinary heritage.  While Baton Rouge may not ever be known for Italian cuisine like other cities in America, citizens of the Red Stick can rest assured that they can find some delicious and authentic food from “the boot” across the pond if they know where to look!

Jay D. Ducote is the author of the blog Bite and Booze, which chronicles his culinary and indulgent cultural experiences around Baton Rouge, South Louisiana, and the world.  It can be found at www.biteandbooze.com.  You can also reach him by email at jay@biteandbooze.com, like the Bite and Booze fan page on Facebook, and follow him on Twitter @biteandbooze. Thanks to Eric Ducote of BRBeerScene.com for taking all the pictures for this article.

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