Jay D's Bites: Brie en Croute with Barbecue Fig Jam

Who doesn’t love cheese wrapped in dough?! My favorite part about preparing this dish was cutting open the crust and watching brie ooze out. We transformed this mild wheel of cheese into hot, gooey comfort food. The sweet-tart fig sauce gives contract to this appetizer and will make this a must-have when hosting friends and family. Serve with your favorite crackers!

Brie en Croute with Barbecue Fig Jam

Serves 8-10

Photo: Jordan Hefler Photography

1 Wheel of Brie cheese

1 Package of Fillo dough, at least 10 sheets
1 egg, beaten
Barebecue Fig Jam
8 whole fig preserves
½ cup Jay D’s Louisiana Barbecue Sauce

Preheat oven to 350℉. Combine fig preserves with Jay D’s Louisiana Barbecue Sauce in a small pot and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from heat and blend until smooth. Stack 10 Sheets of Fillo dough and place the wheel of Brie Wrap at the center. Fold up corners to completely encase the Brie. Brush egg wash over dough and bake until golden brown. Once out of the oven, cover the top with Barbecue Fig Jam.

Burgers with Chuck: The Return of Dearman's

by Chuck P

Since opening its doors in the late 1950’s at the Bocage Village Shopping Center as a pharmacy and soda shop, Dearman’s has been a Baton Rouge landmark. Throughout the years their classic cheeseburger became known as one the best in town with people crowding the tables and counter for lunch and dinner to get their hands on one.

Unfortunately, on March 1st of 2016, a fire roared through the back of the restaurant causing over $500,ooo in damages. To add insult to injury, their lease was terminated a week later. With no plans of opening at a different location it seemed like Dearman’s legacy had come to an end.

Eventually with a rallying cry from its loyal customers and Save Dearman’s Facebook Pages being created, the future of this beloved establishment was shining bright once again. With a new 5 year lease in hand construction started to bring Dearman’s back to life and at 11pm on December 18th the doors opened again to greet hungry and loyal fans who were craving one thing: that delicious classic cheeseburger.

Dearman's Classic Double Cheese Burger with Bacon and Grilled Onions

There’s really not much you can say about the Dearman’s burger that hasn’t already been said before. It’s a simple burger that needs no gimmicks. My only additions when I order are bacon (because...well, bacon) and grilled onions. The juiciness of the perfectly seasoned patties (don’t be a fool, get a double) covered in melted cheese is absolute perfection and the buns are always soft and fresh. Every bite leaves you wanting more. Add to that some tasty house cut fries and one of their signature malts or milkshakes (vanilla milkshake every time), and you’ve got yourself one hell of a meal.

After many years spent eating Dearman’s I was worried that after the fire I’d never get a chance to enjoy one of their delicious burgers again. I’m sure glad I was wrong. It’s good to have such a beloved local staple back in business. Welcome back Dearman’s! A true Baton Rouge classic!

Jay D's Bites: Molasses Mustard Beer Cheese

by Jay Ducote

I'm excited to share that I've teamed up with Morton Salt to help #EraseFoodWaste, which is especially timely with The Big Game taking place tomorrow! Did you know that this Sunday is the second biggest food consumption day of the year? Yep, only beat by Thanksgiving! That means lots of leftovers, and lots of great options for next-day meals to reuse that extra food!

If you're entertaining like me, I can pretty much guarantee that you've already got two of the most essential ingredients for any football party: beer and cheese! I’m making my Molasses Mustard Beer Cheese - the perfect dip for pretzel bites to enjoy during The Big Game. The best part about this recipe? You can use the leftover pretzel buns and beer cheese to make pulled pork sandwiches for Monday night dinner!

Along with Jay D’s Louisiana Molasses Mustard, this dip featuring both beer and cheese will warm your body and soul no matter who you're cheering for. We used Avery Brewing Co. TWEAK Stout to add a deep flavor along with the Molasses Mustard, which balances well with the tangy and sweet notes of the mustard, and a touch of Morton's Kosher Salt to bring it all together.

For a perfect dip, we used some local pretzel brioche buns from Rösch Bakehaus, but you can use whatever you’d like.

Molasses Mustard Beer Cheese

Serves 10-12

Photo: Jordan Hefler Photography

4 Tbsp butter
4 Tbsp flour
2 cups shredded cheddar cheese
¼ cup Jay D’s Louisiana Molasses Mustard
12 oz stout beer
1 tsp horseradish
1 quart warm milk
3 cloves garlic, microplaned/finely grated
1 tsp onion powder
2 Tbsp Morton kosher salt

In a saucepan, combine butter and flour over medium heat to make a blonde roux; stir constantly. Add milk, stout beer, horseradish, garlic, Molasses Mustard and dried seasonings. Simmer for 15-20 minutes. Turn off heat and whisk in cheese.

The Big Cheezy in The Big Easy

by Hannah Wilson, intern

This past Sunday, while waiting on the Jazz Fest gates to open, my friends and I decided to hit up one of our favorite restaurants in New Orleans, The Big Cheezy in mid city. The staff is always so polite and welcoming. With three locations in mid city, uptown and in Kenner, it’s definitely something that’s become a NOLA must for me.

Each location has a slightly different menu, but our go-to favorites are the Big Cheezy, the Mac N’ Cheezy and the Flying Dutchman.

The Big Cheezy

The restaurant’s namesake is a great spin on the classic staple. Staged on Hawaiian Sweet Bread it’s a magnificent, triple decker sandwich comprised of not one, but six cheeses! The Gouda, Mozzarella, Cheddar, Pepper Jack, Monterey Jack and Parmesan all compliment each other for one tasty take on the Grilled Cheese. 

The Flying Dutchman

A more wild version of the grilled cheese, The Flying Dutchman, is a must try. Gouda paired with smoked turkey and applewood smoked bacon is topped off with honey mustard; the perfect amount of meat, cheese and all things good.

Mac N' Cheezy

This one is my absolute favorite. Their four cheese, bacon mac and cheese piled high with cheddar cheese on their country white bread is easily that most savory thing I’ve ever tried. The flavors all perfectly blend and are sure to leave your taste buds beyond content. We paired it with their sweet potato fries as a side and boy, were we in Heaven.

Although it was kind of a bummer that Jazz Fest was delayed due to the crazy weather, The Big Cheezy’s gourmet grilled cheeses were the perfect pick me up for our spirits and our appetites. Next time you’re looking for a savory twist in the Big Easy, check out the Big Cheezy!

Zorba's Bistro: It's All Greek to Me!

– Sydney "Brown Nose" Blanchard

When Zorba's Bistro reopened last year, many Baton Rougeans rejoiced. From 1984 to 2000, Zorba's had been a local favorite and one of the only Greek restaurants in the city to serve nothing but Greek food (as opposed to Greek and Lebanese fare).

I had never been to the original Zorba's, but recently when Blair asked me what I wanted for lunch, I suggested we check out the new Essen location. 

Zorba's new location on Essen Lane has a cheery outdoor area.

If the day hadn't been so rainy, I'd have insisted we sit outside. The new location has a lovely outdoor seating area, painted white with a vaulted overhead ceiling and patio umbrellas in shades of blue. 

The interior was just as nice. It was dimly lit with scenes of Greece and woven baskets lining the walls, and it offered us refuge from the rain.

Our waiter, a family member of the owners, helped us choose our appetizer and main course. He recommended we start with the Chef's choice, cheese saganaki, or Greek kasseri cheese flambéed at our table and drenched in lemon juice. I'm not one to get excited about squares of fried cheese, but this stuff was amazing; crunchy and lemony on the outside, warm and gooey on the inside. 

We didn't start the fire! Our waiter lit our cheese saganaki on fire.

As per our waiter's suggestion, Blair ordered the Big-Z Lamb Burger, a thick portion of seasoned lamb meat on a bun topped with arugula and sun-dried tomatoes and served with Zorba's house salad and feta cheese fries. The burger was gigantic and juicy, but Blair and I were blown away by the feta cheese fries. I kept stealing fries off her plate. They were insanely delicious. 

We live for these feta cheese fries. 

I ordered the combination souvlaki, which was a massive plate of beef, chicken and gyros served with rice pilaf, Zorba's house salad and grilled bell peppers. This was perfect for people like me who are trying to watch their carb intake. It can be really hard to cut back on carbs, but this colorful plate made it painless (minus the rice pilaf). 

Chicken, beef, and gyros combination souvlaki plate with rice pilaf, salad, and grilled veggies. 

We were stuffed to the gills, so we passed on dessert, but we swore we'd try the baklava the next time around. And there will be a next time. 

Put it all on 18 Steak

A couple of weeks ago my Chief Confusion Coordinator, Blair Loup, and I got the chance to sit down to a wonderful feast at L’Auberge Baton Rouge’s 18 Steak with their PR Manager, Julie Collins. Hanging out with Julie at the Stadium Bar & Grill’s Jameson Dinner in March proved to be a lovely dining experience, so naturally we were pumped to get the invite to try out 18 Steak! I’ve had the fortune of being treated to some amazing meals at the Ember Grille & Wine Bar at the L’Auberge in Lake Charles a few times, so I eagerly anticipated what 18 Steak would have to offer. I had been to 18 Steak a couple times for private events like the Mount Gay Rum Dinner, but this would be my first time to eat off the regular menu.

The evening began at the bar where the ladies and I each enjoyed an Old Fashioned made with George Dickel Whisky - good stuff if you haven’t tried it. The dining room features something of a whiskey barrel theme. You can tell a lot of thought, creative use of whiskey barrels, and attention to detail went into its construction. Julie set us up with a really nice booth overlooking the river and the party commenced. By party, I mean I looked through their iPad wine list for days. The impressive selection entertained me for quite a while. Chef Samantha Foglesong grabbed my attention right away with some creative appetizers. I highly recommend stopping by to check out what Chef is slinging. Who knows... maybe you’ll see me there. I’ll be the guy with the Cowboy Ribeye sitting between two ladies gabbing and giggling about Harry Potter nonsense. At least, that's what happened on this occasion, but I loved it. 

Foie gras is essentially a fattened duck or goose liver that can be prepared in a number of ways. Pictured below is 18 Steak's take on liver and onions. Foie gras can be a texture problem for some, but the taste of this particular dish is well balanced. The fattiness of the liver combined with the crunch of the foie gras crouton and pickled onions sends a pop of flavors and consistencies to the palate. I enjoyed the pickling of the onions. It helped brighten up the heavy flavor of the foie gras.

Liver & Onions: Seared Foie Gras, Foie Gras Crouton, and Pickled Onions

The Lobster Spring Rolls were presented beautifully. The colors from the vegetables on the plate really made the dish stand out visually. Our server suggested we treat the spring roll as the filling in a lettuce wrap. This lit up the flavors inside the roll and made for a refreshing starter to our meal.

Lobster Spring Roll with Bok Choy and Cilantro

18 Steak tops their crab cake with a creamy lump crab ravigote. The crab cake featured a perfectly crunchy shell while maintaining a pleasantly succulent inside. Combined with the cool, creamy ravigote, the crab cake had all the elements of savory seasonings and textures you could ask for.

Jumbo Lump Crab Cake with Ground Mustard and Crab Ravigote 

The Corn Macque Choux is a classic dish at a southerner's gathering, but 18 Steak has given this classic a delightful makeover. The rich spiciness of tasso adds a new level of zing to this already delightfully zesty side dish. Presented in a corn husk, this is dish is a must-order for me.

Sweet Corn Maque Choux 

I'm a big fan of oysters so I had to try to the fried Gulf oysters Rockefellar! The oysters were skillfully fried with a nice crunch and juicy center. The wilted, creamy spinach underneath complimented the crunch of the oysters. If you're an oyster fan, you won't want to pass this one up.

Gulf Oysters with Rockefeller Pernod, Wilted Spinach, and Ricotta Salata 

New Orleans Style BBQ Shrimp is a familiar flavor. Sometimes when outside of New Orleans recreating this classic is tricky, but 18 Steak hit the nail on the head. Jumbo Gulf shrimp were cloaked in a decadent, savory sauce and topped with buttery breadsticks. Definitely dip the breadsticks in the buttery mixture.

Wood Grilled BBQ Shrimp with Lobster Dumplings and Rustic Stone Focaccia Breadsticks 

"Where have you been all my life?" is the first thought that crossed my mind when I took a bite of the 18 Steak mac n' cheese. Not only was the macaroni thick and creamy, but the tasso ham added a pleasant saltiness and spiciness to the dish. On top is basically a fried cheese puff. Before you go thinking "that's too much cheese," please stop yourself. There is no way a dish with cheese in its name can have too much cheese. Also, the crunchiness of the crouton really adds something special to the much loved comfort food. If you try it and still think it's too much, send it my way.

Macaroni and Cheese with Tasso Ham and Fontina Stuffed Crouton

Julie had the Wagyu flatiron steak. Wagyu is a breed of Japanese cows and is known for it's intense and consistent marbling. This marbling helps create an extremely juicy steak. Pictured below is the Wagyu Flatiron with a Bleu Cheese Crust, a "Steak Enhancer" at 18 Steak and a harmonious pairing.

12 oz. Flat Iron Wagyu Steak aged for 45 Days and grilled over Mesquite, Hickory and Pecan woods with a Bleu Cheese Crust

While there were some incredible looking dishes to tempt me, I had to go for the steak. My top choice in steaks is pretty much always a bone ribeye. This time I went with the center cut ribeye. A nice sear on the outside out a charred crust on the gorgeous prime steak and I included some foie gras butter on the side.

16 oz. Center Cut Ribeye aged for 45 days and grilled over Mesquite, Hickory and Pecan woods with Foie Gras Butter

Bite and Booze Bonus: Seriously... don't skip on the Macaroni or the Corn Maque Choux - they might change your life. Also try the Sweet Potato Gnocchi with Fresh Sage, Brown Butter and Maple Syrup... a little sweet and very savory.

La Truffe Sauvage in Lake Charles, LA

La Truffe Sauvage in Lake Charles, LA

Lake Charles not only impressed me with the tour around town, boudin and cracklins, and seafood feasting, but at night we also got to experience a spectacular meal at Lake Charles' premiere fine dining restaurant. La Truffe Sauvage is a French style eatery that clearly puts a lot of passion behind their food. We went through a culinary journey on a wine dinner the night before Lake Charles' annual Rouge et Blanc wine festival. I'll attempt to walk you through all the courses as I salivate while I remind myself of all the deliciousness. The Hors d'Oeuvres, not pictured here, included octopus with extra virgin olive oil, lemon, and oregano, Parmigiana Reggiano crusted asparagus with sauce verte, white truffle macaroni and cheese with beef tenderloin, and duck confit with onion marmalade. Served with some bubbly, a Gosset Brut Excellence, the passed appetizers prepared us for our sensational meal from Chef Mohamed Chettouh and wine pairings by D.C. Flynt.

Louisiana Jumbo Lump Crab Cake and Shrimp Bourek

Our first seated course came in the form of a shrimp stuffed Turkish pastry atop a luscious crab cake and a red, green, and yellow tomato relish. The dish paired with a Fevre et Fevre 2011 Chablis. I really appreciated the combination of flavors and techniques between south Louisiana and a dish like Bourek which dates back the Ottoman Empire.

Crispy Red Snapper, Porcini Mushroom Risotto, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Lemon

Course two stayed in the seafood category and again combined a classic Louisiana protein with a European starch. The creamy porcini mushroom risotto gave an earthy flavor that contrasted the brightness from the lemon and the acidity in the wine, a Meursault Clos du Cromin 2011 from winemaker David Moret in the Burgundy region of France. The dish really dazzled even more due to the true crispiness of the skin on the red snapper. It added a depth of texture next to the risotto and flesh of the Gulf fish.

Double Duck Consomme, Poached Quail Egg, Rice Noodles, Asparagus Tips, White Truffle Oil

For a soup course we feasted on a duck consomme. The flavorful broth conjured up memories of duck hunting and my childhood... not that I ever ate anything quite like this growing up. A couple 2010 wines from Roland Rapet were served with the duck conomme: a Aloxe Corton and the Corton Grand Cru. Both were stellar accompaniments to the delicious consomme. The poached quail egg also added a great richness in the soup.

Colorado Lamb Two Ways: Roasted Rack & Braised Shoulder, Spanakopita, Ratatouille, Natural Jus 

I looked forward to this lamb course the most and fortunately it did not disappoint. Getting back to eastern European flavors, Chef Mohamed used lamb to create a magical dish. The spanakopita is a Greek style savory spinach pie, which this time also included braised lamb shoulder. The ratatouille came wrapped in cucumber and the lamb chops were delightful. I love lamb. I think I remember sneaking another chop off somebody else's plate to get more. They were full already anyway! The lamb course also came with a pair of wines for us try. This time from Bernard Gros, we had the Vosne Romanee 2008 and the Clos Vougeot Grand Cru "Musigni" 2006. I need to learn more about French wine. I just know it was red and delicious.

Warm Montrachet with Thyme, Heirloom Tomato, Arugula, Herb Cracker, Roasted Shallot Vinaigrette

The salad and cheese course finished off the savory part of the meal. I liked having the salad toward the end as opposed to at the beginning of the feast. I still had a little room for some greenery, so I made it work. The warm cheese worked extremely well with the green tomato and the spicy arugula with the roasted shallot vinaigrette. 

Rum Savarin, White Chocolate - Passion Fruit Mousse, Almond Tuile

The savarin is a yeast cake soaked in rum (or it could be a different hard liquor) and filled with cream. I personally did not find the texture to be all that appealing as it was like a soggy donut, but the flavors were certainly well conceived and delicious. The dessert came served with the Kracher Trockenbeerenauslese. Yes, that's really what it is called. Mr. Kracher is apparently one of the bigger names in Austrian wine and the Trockenbeerenauslese is a style of German and Austrian wine making that produces a very sweet dessert wine from dried grapes with high sugar content. Like I said, I could really use some lessons in European wines, so if anyone is reading this and wants to send me on an adventure around Europe doing "professional development," just let me know!

Assorted Truffles

Second dessert? Yes, please! The meal didn't fully end after the rum savarin course. We still had time for coffee, and along with coffee came some assorted truffles for our dining pleasure. I ate a couple for research purposes, but by that time I had reached my limit and was stuffed. What an amazing meal. Thanks to Chef Mohamed, D.C. Flynt, and everyone at La Truffe Sauvage for having me, as well as the Lake Charles CVB for lining it all up for us. The next day we were off to Rouge et Blanc. More on that later.

Brash Brewing/Clown Shoes Beer Dinner at Juban's

Brash Brewing and Clown Shoes Brewing Beer Dinner at Juban's

Please pardon the quality of these photos due to lack of lighting, but I think you'll see that you still wish you were at this beer dinner.  Last month, Juban's Chef Jaime Hernandez put together a beer dinner with daring beers from Clown Shoes and the Brash Brewing Company.  A beer dinner with brews as bold and adventurous as this has not been done in Baton Rouge, to the best of my knowledge... and I would know... or this.  There were a couple beers that I had never tried before, like a sneak peak at the Texas Exile, a bourbon barrel aged brown sugar porter with coffee.  These breweries have good stories like this one told by Todd Price.  And more importantly, they have good beer!

 Belle Ecorce Farms chevre tempura, banana jam, dark chocolate

Chef Jaime started us off with an assorted charcuterie board as well as the above bad boys.  Local goat cheese fried in a tempura batter with banana jam and dark chocolate, inspired by the The Bullocks Imperial India Pale Ale.  With hint of banana and clove in the beer as well as rich dark fruit, the little ball on a stick paired very nicely.

Orecchiette Puttanesca: Fresh pacific sardines, marinated olives, fresh jarred tomato sauce

The sardines were served with the Clown Shoes Tramp Stamp, and Belgian Indian Pale Ale with and odd combination of yeasty and hoppy flavors.  The sardines themselves were fried to a delicate crisp and partnered with mouth-watering pasta and tomato sauce.

Roasted Bone Marrow: Honey bourbon brine, market pepper chow chow, crostini

Our third course featured roasted marrow straight from a bone.  It had been brined in Juban's signature honey bourbon and served with chow chow and some crostinis.  The fattiness of the marrow led to a succulent flavor that was cut by the bitterness from the Item 9 American wheat beer from Brash with an astonishing 80 IBUs.  The dish and beer were downright delectable. 

Pork Tamale: Braised Iverstine farms pork shanks, pecan mole sauce, wrapped in fresh banana leaves

With the Clown Shoes Chocolate Sombrero Mexican chocolate stout came Chef Hernandez's take on an authentic Mexican inspired dish.  Using local pork from Iverstine Family Farms in Kentwood, Chef created a banana leaf wrapped tamale with pecan mole.  The nutty and chocolate-y sauce partnered with the pork and made a dish packed with different flavors.

Fromage et Saucisson: Sharp white cheddar and pimento mousse, rabbit boudin blanc, satsuma marmalade

The cheese course, served with spectacular rabbit boudin, also came with the Clown Shoes Clementine 1.5 Double White Ale.  The cheese mousse had a sensational flavor and worked incredibly well with the boudin.  The addition of the satsuma marmalade tied the dish together with the citrus-y white ale.  Well done, Chef.

Red Velvet Cake: Nanette Mayhall's famous cake, cream cheese icing, toasted pecans

The dinner wrapped up with the most anticipated beer of the evening: Flight of the Pimp.  This beer features a combination of Pimp, a blending of Clown Shoes and Brash Brewing's brown ales, and bourbon barrel aged Blaecorn Unidragon, a Russian Imperial Stout from Clown Shoes.  The beer... amazing.  I need another.  And the red velvet cake didn't disappoint either.  I kept eating, devouring the chocolate and cream cheese flavors, and matching it against the ultra complex Flight of the Pimp.  Needless to say, everyone went home happy!

Recipes: September Class at Fresina's with Anolon

Each month I block out a couple days to do a cooking class at Fresina's Pasta Company at the Drusilla Shopping Center in Baton Rouge.  Since they are an Italian specialty shop with homemade pastas, I make an Italian inspired menu for a group of up to eight people.  Over wine or local beers, I teach some tricks and show off some recipes.  It is always a good time and everybody leaves full from a homemade lunch.

Tomato Sauce for Bruschetta in Analon's "Everything Pan"

In September I made a menu of Italian Sausage Caprese Bruschetta, Chicken Canzanese over Creamy Polenta, and Double Chocolate Fennel Biscotti inspired by fellow Virtual Potlucker Food Hunters Guide.  I also got to use my new pans that Anolon sent me for the first time.  I cooked the sauce for the bruschetta on the 9.5" Nouvelle Copper Stainless Steel "Everyday Pan."  The chicken canzanese was cooked in the 5 quart covered saute from the Anolon Advanced series.  Feel free to check out Anolon on Facebook and Twitter to learn more about their pots and pans.  These two were certainly incredible, especially the Anolon Advanced saute pan which held ten chicken thighs and cooked them up wonderfully with no sticking anywhere in sight!  Here are the recipes for the class.  I hope you enjoy!

Course 1: Bruschetta with Fresina’s Italian Sausage, Creamy Mozzarella, Spicy Tomato Sauce, Fresh Basil, and a reduction of Fresina's Balsamic Vinegar

Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 lbs Fresina’s Italian Sausage
2 cups white wine of drinkable quality to cook with
10 cloves of garlic, peeled and divided, mince half the cloves
1 leek, diced
1/2 jar of red pepper chunky tomato sauce from Fresina’s
10 leaves fresh basil
1 baguette of Italian or French bread
1 block of fresh or aged Mozzarella from Fresina’s
Makes 8-10 servings

BALSAMIC REDUCTION
1/3 Cup Fresina’s Balsamic Vinegar
1/4 Cup Sugar
1 Tsp Cayenne Pepper

Place balsamic, sugar, and cayenne in small sauce pan over medium heat.  Allow to simmer and reduce by half until it coats the back of a spoon.

Preheat the oven to 350F

Add enough olive oil to coat the bottom to a large saute pan or high-walled skillet over medium-high heat. Brown the sausage in its casings on all sides as much as possible for 5 minutes or so.  In a second skillet, or in this case Anolon's Everyday Pan, heat enough olive oil to over the bottom of the pan over medium heat, then add the diced leak and the five minced cloves of garlic and sauté until soft, 2-3 minutes.

When the sausage has browned, add one cup of the wine and simmer the sausage uncovered in the wine.  If you need to speed up the cooking process at any time, cover the pan.  When the leaks and garlic are ready, add the tomato sauce and stir.  Reduce heat to simmer.

Slice the baguette on a bias (diagonally) into oval pieces that are approximately a quarter inch thick.  In a food processor, add the five whole garlic cloves and approximately a 1/3 cup of olive oil.  Blend until the garlic is fully incorporated into the olive oil.  Brush the garlic oil onto the bread slices that are arranged on baking sheet.  Place the bread in the preheated oven for about 10 minutes.  During the 10 minutes, stir the simmering tomato sauce, balsamic that is reducing, and flip over the sausage.  If the pan has run out of wine to simmer in, add the other cup of wine in with the sausage, or add a cup of water.  Also, slice the mozzarella into pieces that will fit nicely on the bread slices.  When the 10 minutes is up, remove the bread from the oven.  While it cools slightly, slice the sausage on the bias into pieces that will fit on the bread and are about the same thickness as the bread.  Start building the bruschetta by placing a slice of sausage followed by a slice of cheese onto each of the pieces of bread.  Place them back in the oven for another 5-6 minutes to melt the cheese.

When the bruschetta comes out of the oven, spoon the tomato sauce over each piece, followed by a drizzle of the balsamic reduction.  Top them with the basil chiffonade to garnish.  Eat immediately.

Course 2: Chicken Canzanese - White Wine Braised Chicken Thighs with Crispy Skin
served over Creamy Polenta

1 tablespoon olive oil
2 ounces pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch cubes
4 medium garlic cloves , sliced thin lengthwise
8-10 skin-on chicken thighs (about 3 pounds)
2 teaspoons unbleached all-purpose flour
2 cups white wine of drinkable quality to cook with
1 cup chicken stock
4 whole cloves
6-8 whole fresh basil leaves
12 whole fresh sage leaves
2 bay leaves
1/4-1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon juice from 1 lemon
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees.

Heat 1 teaspoon oil in 12-inch heavy-bottomed oven safe saute pan over medium heat until shimmering. Add pancetta and cook, stirring frequently, until just starting to brown, about 3 minutes. Add garlic slices and cook, stirring frequently, until garlic is golden brown, about 1½ minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer garlic and pancetta to small bowl and set aside. Do not rinse pan.

Increase heat to medium-high; add remaining 2 teaspoons oil and heat until just smoking. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with ground black pepper and kosher salt. Add chicken, skin side down, and cook without moving until well browned, 5 to 8 minutes. Using tongs, turn chicken and brown on second side, about 5 minutes longer. Transfer chicken to large plate.

Remove all but 2 tablespoons fat from pan. Sprinkle flour over fat and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Slowly add wine followed by the stock; bring to simmer, scraping bottom of pan with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits. Cook until liquid is slightly reduced, 3 minutes. Stir in cloves, sage leaves, bay leaves, red pepper flakes, and reserved prosciutto and garlic. Nestle chicken into liquid, skin side up (skin should be above surface of liquid), and bake, uncovered, until meat offers no resistance when poked with fork but is not falling off bones, about 1 hour. (Check chicken after 15 minutes; broth should be barely bubbling. If bubbling vigorously, reduce oven temperature to 300 degrees.)

Using tongs, transfer chicken to serving platter and tent with foil. Remove and discard sage leaves, cloves, and bay leaves. Place skillet over high heat and bring sauce to boil. Cook until sauce is reduced to 1¼ cups, 2 to 5 minutes. Off heat, stir in lemon juice, and butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Plate chicken over the polenta and pour sauce around chicken.  Garnish with chiffonade of basil and serve.

Polenta:
4 cups water, plus more as needed
4 cups whole milk
3 tablespoons butter
2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 cups polenta
1/2 cup sour cream
1/3 cup finely grated parmesan

In a large saucepan, bring the water, milk and butter to a boil. Add 2 teaspoons of salt to the water and whisk in the polenta. Whisk constantly for 3 to 4 minutes to prevent lumps. Simmer for 45 minutes, partially covered and stirring every 10 minutes, until the polenta is thick, smooth, and creamy. Remove from heat.  Add the sour cream and Parmesan. Check for seasoning and adjust consistency by adding milk or water to the polenta.

Course 3: Double Chocolate Fennel Biscotti

2 Cups Unbleached AP Flour
1/2 Cup Unsweetened Cocoa Powder
1 Teaspoon Baking Soda
1 Teaspoon Salt
1 Teaspoon Ground Fennel
1 Teaspoon Vanilla
3/4 Stick (6 Tablespoons) Butter, Softened
1 Cup Granulated Sugar
2 Large Eggs
1 Cup Semisweet Chocolate Chips

Preheat oven to 350°F.  Grease a large baking sheet.

In a bowl whisk together flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, ground fennel seeds, and salt. In another bowl with an electric mixer beat butter and sugar until light and fluffy.  Add eggs one at a time and beat until combined.  Add vanilla.  Mix in flour mixture a little at a time.  Stir in chocolate chips.

On the prepared baking sheet with floured hands, form the dough into two slightly flattened logs, approximately 2 inches wide.  Bake for about 35 minutes, or until slightly firm to the touch. Cool on baking sheet 5 minutes.  Cut logs diagonally into slices.  Arrange cut sides down on baking sheet and bake until crisp, about 10 minutes. Cool on a rack.

I Like Cheese!

Cheese is one of those things that is a mystery to a lot of people.  Much like some whisky or bitter beer, you have to acquire a taste for it.  To a real cheese head, the stinkier the better.  I like that.  I like eating cheeses that smell like feet.  However, I often don't really know where to find good cheeses.  It seems like there isn't much made in Louisiana other than some fine goat cheeses.  Why is that?  I'd love if somebody started making a bunch of stinky cheese.

This cheese tray was graciously brought to my room recently at the Hyatt French Quarter in New Orleans in between COOLinary meals at Superior Seafood and Commander's Palace.  Their restaurant and coffee bar, named Powdered Sugar, has a pretty sweet selection of cheeses as well as some nice coffee beverages that I sipped on the next morning.  I was impressed that they brought some small batch cheese from Georgia and South Carolina.  Now I want some Louisiana cheese!  Anyone know of any?  Leave a comment below if you do!

Sylvia's: Soul Food in NYC

Fried Chicken and Ribs Combo at Sylvia's in Harlem

During my most recent trip to NYC, I experienced by The Bronx and Harlem for the first time.  I recommend both areas to anybody who is trying to soak up some true culture while in the Big Apple.  Much like New Orleans where I advise visitors to get out of the French Quarter for at least a little while, when in New York you truly must escape from lower Manhattan at some point.

Harlem lays claim to one of the most popular soul food restaurants in New York: Sylvia's.  With national acclaim and quite a bit of press to back it up, the Queen of Soul Food is definitely on the map as a restaurant.  I decided that I ought to sample a few things while sitting in the breezy curbside dining area, so I ordered the Bar-B-Que Ribs and Fried Chicken Combo ($18.95).

The chicken leg quarter had a crispy crust but lacked significant flavor.  The ribs had been oven-roasted in a "barbecue" sauce that tasted more like sweet and sour to me.  While both items were quite tasty, they didn't really compare to soul food from the South.  I know many Louisiana kitchens where I would have gotten three times the food for the same price, and it would have all been amazing.  The greens and mac and cheese tasted fairly authentic and I enjoyed them with the meats.  I washed my meal down with a highly drinkable Sugar Hill Golden Ale from the Harlem Brewing Company.  In the end, Sylvia's presented edible food with a southern soul feel, but didn't live up to my lofty expectations.  It happens.  I'm yet to find a New York style pizza in the South that lives up to what you can actually find in NYC!

Beer Cheese? Yes, Please!

Jay with beer... and cheese

If anybody can find something wrong with beer and cheese, please stop reading this post now.  For those continuing, which I assume is everybody, let me tell you about a little place in NYC that my friend Molly introduced me to called Earl's Beer & Cheese.  First, it literally is a little place.  Secondly, they have beer.  And cheese.  And finally, they have beer-cheese!  

Earl's Beer & Cheese is in Manhattan between Harlem and the Upper East Side.  Molly and I got started with the famous beer-cheese which contains New York State cheddar, Earl's house lager, and fresh garlic with toast.  The beer infused cheddar cheese could be easily spread on the toast with slivers of fresh garlic.  The bread itself had an amazing soft-yet-crispy texture with a supremely buttery flavor that could have been enjoyed completely on its own.  Add a little beer-cheese and garlic, and I could be happy eating this for a full meal.  

Earl's Beer-Cheese with Fresh Garlic and Toast

However, as good as the beer-cheese tasted, I couldn't stop there.  Not when I saw one of the menu's signature dishes.  The Earl’s Eggo called out to me like a flare gun firing in the moonlight by a stranded sailor on an island to signal a ship upon the sea.  The inconspicuous Eggo waffle came topped with seared foie gras, aged cabot cheddar, coffee-cured bacon, and "syzzurpy" goodness.  This gourmet breakfast item ran a hefty $17 price tag, but that barely phased me.  I had to try it.  And then I had to devour the entire thing.  The flavors clashed on my palate in a toil of tasty deliciousness.  The foie gras's rich and creamy texture met the sweet syrup with vibrant complexity, then the bacon and cheese followed with their classic salty and savory tones.  If you don't like foie gras, this dish isn't for you.  But if you ever find yourself wanting to try something new, then put this on your to-eat list.

Earl's Egg.