Southern Foodways Alliance, Uprooted

by Sydney Blanchard

Each month, our Uprooted series will highlight local chefs, restaurants, organizations, and farmers who are spearheading the farm-to-table and local foodways movements in South Louisiana.

It would be negligent of me, perhaps criminal, to attempt to write a series about Southern foodways without giving mention and credit to the Southern Foodways Alliance based out of Oxford, Mississippi.

The Southern Foodways Alliance's offices are located in the Barnard Observatory at the University of Mississippi

Founded in 1999 by author and activist John Egerton, the Southern Foodways Alliance aims to document, study, and explore the diverse food culture of the American South while mapping its evolution.

The Center for the Study of Southern Culture at the University of Mississippi acted as an incubator and provided start-up capital for the SFA. In 1998, the Center staged the first Southern Foodways Symposium, organized by then-graduate student John T. Edge. 

JoAnn Clevenger: A Girl Scout with Gumption. Owner of Upperline Restaurant in New Orleans. 

Now SFA's Director and award-winning writer and commentator, John T. Edge and his team collect oral histories, produce films and podcasts, publish pieces of writing, mentor students, and stage events to further their mission to challenge the way people think of the South. It's nearly impossible to understand the impact of their work unless you watch some of their films.

Their podcast and print publication Gravy was named Publication of the Year by the James Beard Foundation.

Many credit Edge and the SFA with putting Southern food on the map nationally. Before it was trendy, someone had to make it trendy.

The Gospel of the Alabama Oyster, featuring Murder Point Oyster Company.

The SFA hosts an annual symposium, recently rebranded as Food Media South, where major players in the culinary media world come together to network, hear prominent speakers, and enjoy great food. Last year's symposium sold out in seconds. They've even had to create a summer symposium in order to meet the demand of attendees.

While on a media trip with Visit Oxford, I met with Edge at the SFA World Headquarters at the University of Mississippi. He joined us with a warm plate of biscuits and a story that explains the gap the SFA is trying to bridge.

Edge told us about Biscuit Pit in Grenada, Mississippi, where Earline Hall had been making biscuits from simple ingredients for more than 15 years. Each day Earline would cut out rounds of biscuit dough using a disemboweled tin can and would turn the dough into biscuits that tasted like something your grandmother would make.

After reading Edge's Garden & Gun article about the Southern biscuit renaissance that mentioned Biscuit Pit's biscuits, Don Newcomb of Oxford, the visionary behind regional chains Newk's and McAlister's, decided to open a restaurant concept called MyGuys utilizing Earline's biscuit expertise.

The idea of the homemade-style Southern biscuit being brought into a modern realm is what Southern Foodways Alliance is all about, Edge explained. 

Further, he said, his role at SFA is to complicate people's ideas about the South.

"We all see our work as a progressive force in this region," Edge said. "It’s not an attempt to preserve the South, it’s an attempt to document the evolution of the region and tell stories of the region that change perceptions and deepen understanding."

In Edge's view, food serves as a vehicle for bettering the South. The organization doesn't shy away from broaching issues of race, class, religion, gender, etc. In fact, Food Media South's 2016 symposium is specifically focused on "how race and gender impact which food stories get told and who tells them."

Having these kinds of important conversations through the lens of food can be powerful.

If We So Choose, a short documentary about food's role in the Civil Rights Movement. 

Edge mentioned the taint of slavery on the South, and the love/hate relationship he has with the South many Southerners identify with. The tensions between the joys and struggles of the South is what brought Edge to Oxford 20 years ago, where he hoped he would be able to work out his feelings through writing.

"People who thoughtlessly love the South ain’t paying attention," Edge said. "I think that food writing, thinking, exploring food is the most accessible way to get at some of the issues that really matter in the South...to get at issues of race, class, gender, ethnicity. That’s why I do this work."

In a region so divided, is it possible food can serve as a uniting force?

"The South is evolving for the better in many ways," he said. "We’re taking old ways and adapting them to the present."

Read more Uprooted here:

Nino's Italian, Uprooted

Indie Plate, Uprooted

Red Stick Farmers Market, Uprooted

Iverstine Family Farms, Uprooted

Murder Point Oysters, Uprooted

Passport to Shreveport: International Cuisine Rules in the 318

by Sydney Blanchard

Growing up in South Louisiana, there are certain assumptions we make about "Northerners." And by Northerners, we are referring to anyone in Louisiana situated too far north of I-10/12. 

The general theory tossed around as I was growing up is that North Louisiana is essentially Yankee territory, with a disturbing lack of Catholics, culture, and alcoholic beverages. 

Not to say this theory is entirely false, but it's not entirely accurate either, as I discovered on our recent trip to Shreveport. 

As it turns out, Shreveport has quite the budding food scene. Alongside great Southern food, there exists an array of international delicacies that one would be remiss to skip. 

Here's a short list of some of the delicious, multicultural cuisine we enjoyed while visiting the Shreve!

Mexican Fare at Ki' Mexico

What began as a successful farmer's market salsa endeavor has since turned into the restaurant concept Ki' Mexico, owned by Rodrigo Mondragon, his brother Elezear and his mother Lido. Ki' Mexico serves up what they've dubbed "Mexican Soul Food." But this isn't your ordinary Mexican fare – their tacos feature cactus and pickled beets!

Vietnamese Dreams at Jimmy's Seafood and Steak

Jimmy's Seafood and Steak, nestled inside the Margaritaville Casino in Shreveport, serves up menu items you'd expect to see at a nice steak restaurant in a casino. What you wouldn't necessarily expect to see on the menu is Chef Frederick Ngo's Vietnamese clay pot fish dish, or braised fish swimming in a sweet and salty sauce that's unlike anything I've ever tasted before. Shreveport-Bossier Convention and Tourist Bureau's Public Relations and Social Media Manager Chris Jay put it best: it would be a mistake to order a steak at Jimmy's knowing the clay pot fish is an option.

Chinese-American Perfection at Lucky Palace

Lucky Palace boasts some of the best Chinese-American cuisine in the state. I've previously written all about Lucky Palace on the blog. Trust me, this place is more than meets the eye. 

Dominican Realness at Sabores

Dominican flavor bursts through at Sabores. This small hole-in-the-wall joint offers a variety of bold dishes that highlight the best tastes of the region. Spicy meats, crispy fried plantains and surprising sauces are featured on the menu that might be hard to translate if you're not familiar with Spanish.

Latin American Flavor at El Cabo Verde

Gabriel Balderas is doing something major in Shreveport. Cooking with fresh, organic produce, he brings the flavors of Mexico to pop-up restaurants around the Shreveport-Bossier area. You can taste the difference fresh, local produce makes. Gabriel's tamale is out of this world, and we hear the tacos are pretty outstanding, too.

Tea Buzz at Rhino Coffee 

It turns out there are just as many tea nerds as there are beer nerds! Tea is similar to beer in a number of ways: there are endless varieties from all over the world, the flavors are distinctly different depending on number of factors, and drinking it results in a slight buzz. No kidding! Shreveport's Rhino Coffee offers a wide selection of teas, and even offers a tea program for tasting and learning about teas from all over. 

Beers With Chuck: Cold Brews in A Galaxy Far, Far Away...

by Charles Pierce

Photo from Wikipedia.

Like most writing jobs where travel is involved, you sometimes find yourself being shipped out to strange locales that wouldn't normally be your first choice in visiting for a story. This is the situation I found myself in not so long, long ago as Jay decided that I should broaden my beer knowledge by heading out to the desolate planet of Tatooine and checking out the Mos Eisley Cantina to see what out of this world brews were being served on tap.

Photo from shirt.woot.com. 

There's not much to say about the harsh desert planet Tatooine. It's located way out on the Outer Rim, mostly run by vile slug-like gangsters known as Hutts and orbits not one, but TWO giant suns. With my hatred of Louisiana summers, you obviously know this wouldn't be my first choice of places to visit. Besides kicking back on a Saturday afternoon to watch the local podraces, the Mos Eisley Cantina (located in Mos Eisley NOT Mos Espa as most people think) is the only other place with some entertainment and cold brews.

As I made my way through the doors of the very smoky and dimly lit cantina, I took a look around at the local and not-so-local clientele. Everyone from smugglers to criminals and other various rogues filled the cramped spaces at the bars and tables. Totally a wretched hive of scum and villany. As I made my way to the bar I noticed The Modal Nodes, a popular touring band from the planet Bith, were about to kick off their first set. I'd heard nothing but good things about these guys so I was super excited to hear them.

As I waited for the bartender to finish washing some glasses I surveyed the taps and noticed the selection ranged from local brews like the Dewback Dry Ale from Binary Suns Brewing, Far Far Away IPA from Allendale Brewing all the way to Sierra Nevada's The Empire Strikes Black, a hefty 9.8% Imperial Stout that pulls no punches.

Photo from firstcomicsnews.com

While figuring out what to order, I noticed this impatient blond kid rudely tugging at the bartenders shirt to get his attention. The nerve of some people. I thought to myself, he'd better watch himself doing stuff like that in here. You could easily lose a limb with this kind of crowd.

After a few minutes I finally made my choice and went with the That's No Moon Treetop Pale Ale from Twin Moon Brewing Company located over on the forest moon of Endor. This tasty 6.5% ale goes down smooth with just the right amount of bitterness from the Corellian, Bespin and Yavin hops. Before I could get my phone out to log this brew into Untappd though that pesky blond kid seemed to have picked a fight with an angry walrus-looking guy and his pal. 

Photo from tshirtbordello.com.

I had to get out of the way before...hey is that a lightsaber? Uh oh, I've got a bad feeling about this. WHOA! Down goes walrus man missing a right arm. This looked like a good time for me to finish my beer and head back to the hangar and catch the next cruiser back home. I also need to remember to have a talk with that scruffy looking nerf herder of a boss about where he plans on sending me next time.

This post is a part of a series where we delight in Chuck P's brewtastic adventures. Check out his other beer soaked experiences:

Gnarly Barley's Imperial Korova Milk Porter at the GnarBQ
Tin Roof 5th Anniversary Party ft. the Oatmeal Pale Ale and Parade Ground Coffee Porter

Best Bites of 2015: Blair's Picks

by Blair Loup

At the end of last year, Jay and I teamed up and narrowed down a list of the 10 best bites of food Jay had that year. In 2015, Team Bite and Booze grew to a team of three, and Jay, Sydney and I have traveled extensively throughout this year.

We all curated our own lists of the five best things we’ve eaten this year. It wasn’t easy, and I’d be lying if I said I didn’t go through any personal turmoil in making this decision.

These are the five most delicious, life-changing, fork dropping, emotionally involved bites I had the pleasure of eating this year.

Torta Ahogada at Araña New Orleans, LA

I’m not typically in the mood for sandwiches. It is what it is. I can’t explain it, but I could eat this any day, any time. All of the flavors and textures are everything I want: savory, fresh, pickled, spicy, sweet. The bitter/fruity nature of the chili sauce that drowns the torta harmonizes the dish like a rug that ties a whole room together. Every time I think about this dish or see this picture, I fight the urge to drive to New Orleans.

Torta Ahogada: Slow Roasted Pork on Bolillo Bread, Black Bean Purée, Avocado, Crema, Cotiga Cheese, Cumin Pickled Onion,
Spicy Chili Dipping Salsa

Smoked Duck Banh Mi Waffle at Waffle Champion Oklahoma City, OK

I had zero expectations for the Oklahoma City food scene when Jay shipped me off in May, and it blew me away. There are several places I wanted to try that weren't on our schedule, and I honestly can’t wait to plan a trip there soon. Seriously. Picking one item off of the menu at Waffle Champion is challenging, so I went with my heart. The smoked duck was on point; the pickled red onion gave a nice crunchy, acidic bite, and I’m all about pickled fresh jalapeños on anything. The right amount of duck fat soaked into the waffle, which made my life. If you’re ever in OKC, go to Waffle Champion and order this.

Smoked Duck Banh Mi Waffle packed with pickled veggies, jalapeño, and cilantro mayo

Beet Salad at Compère Lapin New Orleans, LA

I love beets. I’m not ashamed of that, and if there’s an item on a menu with beets on it, I will have it. I got the chance to hang out at Compère Lapin interviewing head bartender Abigail Gullo for my Women in Booze series. We talked about seasonal menus, and when she realized my appreciation for beets, she had them send out their beet salad. These perfectly, and I mean perfectly, roasted beets atop house made ricotta, a little Kale pesto, pistachios, and a rocking ciabatta toast point made me emotional.

Roasted Beets, House Ricotta, Kale Pesto, Ciabatta
Photo Courtesy: Compère Lapin

Besh Shrimp at The Second Line Oxford, MS

Born and raised in Louisiana, I’ve never really caught on to the whole New Orleans Style BBQ Shrimp thing. I can appreciate it, and I think it tastes okay, but it’s not my favorite Louisiana dish. Recently on a trip to Oxford, Mississippi, at Chef Kelly English's  Second Line, I had the best BBQ shrimp dish of my life. Obviously named after one of Chef Kelly’s mentors, John Besh, this New Orleans style BBQ shrimp dish had me on that feeling you’re supposed to get when you bite into a York Peppermint Patty. Executive Chef Meredith Pittman runs a tight ship at the Lousiana-inspired eatery with a lovely staff of devoted and talented students. I could eat these Besh Shrimp until the end of my days. It legit made me feel feelings.

Besh Shrimp at Second Line in Oxford, MS

Mole Burrito at El Limon Wayne, PA

When I took a trip up to Wayne, Pennsylvania (outside of Philadelphia) for one of my best friends’ graduation from Villa Nova, he took me to a local Mexican Taqueria, El Limon. Authentic Latin American cuisine is one of my soft spots, but the mole at this place is unreal. We tried several menu items there, but I dreamt about this mole the rest of the trip. That’s right…we went back for more. The cravings were so strong; I had to have that roasty, toasty, spicy goodness twice in one week.

Mole Burrito at El Limon in Wayne, PA

A Trip to the Big Apple for a Bite of the Lucky Peach

by Blair Loup

It was love at first binge watch.

I first got to know David Chang, creator of the Momofuku restaurant family, watching the first season of Mind of a Chef on Netflix in an attempt to educate myself before starting my new job at Bite and Booze nearly two years ago.

The series taught me a little about several topics in the world of food, but the art and culture of ramen stood out the most.

I learned how different types of noodles were made and why they’re used in which styles of ramen. I became intensely fascinated.

What’s worse is that bitten by this ramen bug, I had nowhere to go. There’s only one establishment to my knowledge in Baton Rouge serving ramen, and, while tasty, I knew it to be far from the real deal.

When Team Bite and Booze took a trip to New York to support Chefs Sam and Cody Carroll cooking at the James Beard House, we headed to Momofuku Noodle Bar first.

The Noodle Bar is simply that, a noodle bar. The magical thing about ramen culture is its simplicity. Park yourself at a community table and order away. The menu is broken down into five categories: Daily, Buns, Bowls, Fall and Snacks.

In true Bite and Booze fashion, we ordered something from each category.

To start things off seasonal, we went with the Pea Shoots. I couldn’t get enough of this. Crispy, bright greens coated in kimchi vinaigrette were spicy and sweet all at the same time. Kimchi is fermented mixture of cabbage, Korean chili flakes and other ingredients. Usually a side item, kimchi is being manipulated into things like vinaigrettes and sauces for salads, fries, etc.

Pea Shoots - Chicory, Sesame, Kimchi Vinaigrette

One of the daily specials, Corn, blew us away. Roasted corn cut off the cob topped with a creamy/spicy sauce with pickled tomatillo, fresh oregano, and a sprinkling of roasted pepitas (pumpkin seeds) hit home on every level. Roasty, toasty, and creamy with the right herbs and spice level, this dish had us fighting the urge to lick the bowl.

Corn - Pickled Tomatillo, Pepitas, Oregano

I have a major appreciation for tail meat, so naturally I jumped at the Pig Tails in the Snacks section. The tails were tossed in a chili sauce providing a subtle heat and topped with scallions. While there are a lot of restaurants that use scallions as a useless garnish, I find that when purposefully used, scallions make a dish pop. The pickled Asian pears may have been my favorite part of this dish. I’m a sucker for non-cucumber pickled things.

Pig Tails - Pickled Asian Pear, Chili, Scallion

Our Content Sheriff and Warden of the Web Sydney wasn’t feeling in a ramen mood, so she tried the Brisket Buns. Being the sweetheart she is, she let me have a bite. If clouds were buns, they would be steam buns. They’re more of a textural element of a dish. The little to no flavor of the steam bun set the stage for a bold bite.

Brisket - Horseradish, Pickled Red Onion, Cucumber

I had heard fantastic things about all of the Bowls at Momofuku, but I had my heart set (for over a year). It's important to remember there are different styles of ramen. Some are thinner, clearer broths, while others can be thin and have a creamy, thick, and rich taste.

Momofuku Ramen - Pork Belly, Pork Shoulder, Poached Egg

This particular bowl of ramen was more brothy and turned creamier when I swirled in the yolk of the poached egg. The noodles were some of the best I’ve had. Ramen noodles behave the way they do because of their alkalinity. It can better be explained by this video from Lucky Peach:



I will say that if I get the chance to go back, I’ll try their chilled spicy noodles. The guy sitting next to me was losing his mind over them.


No trip to Momofuku Noodle Bar would be complete without a walk to their sister bakery Milk Bar a few blocks away. James Beard decorated pastry chef Christina Tosi made the desert program at Momofuku and has since gone on to assist some of the other Momofuku restaurants in winning awards as well as running "one of the most exciting bakeries in the country," according to Bon Appétit Magazine. Known for their Birthday Cake, Crack Pie, and Soft Serve, you can’t go wrong.

Soft Serve at Milk Bar

Chef David Chang is a special dude doing some cool things with the right people in place. Being able to go to his flagship restaurant for a good bowl of ramen is something I've wanted to do for a long time. If you have any restaurant bucket list items feel free to leave them in the comments below or let us know Facebook or give us a shout on Twitter or Instagram at @biteandbooze.

Bite and Booze Bonus: If you're into awesome recipes, food knowledge/science, culinary adventures, etc., check out Lucky Peach. David Chang is one of the founders and editors of this quarterly food journal.