From Paris with Love: The Tradition of Po-Boys & Bánh Mì in South Louisiana

by Sydney Blanchard

Grilled Pork bánh mì at Dang's in Baton Rouge

The po-boy can be found on just about any menu at any restaurant in South Louisiana. This Southern sandwich tops lists of Louisiana foods to try, and even President Obama had to get his paws on one when he recently traveled to Baton Rouge.

Despite the po-boy's status as Southern staple, few people know its origins.

Recently, one of our Instagram followers suggested we investigate po-boys and compare them to the Vietnamese bánh mì that have increased in popularity in the past few years.

The history, and their similarities, makes for a fascinating read.

History of the Po-Boy

Head to the blog to check out our first thoughts on @gouterrestaurant! We can't wait to try the dinner menu.

A photo posted by Jay Ducote (@biteandbooze) on Apr 5, 2016 at 9:04am PDT

The story goes that in the early 20th century, brothers Benny and Clovis Martin from Raceland, Louisiana, made their way to New Orleans and took jobs as streetcar conductors. Years later, the brothers opened a sandwich shop near the French Market where they invented a more symmetrical alternative to the French loaves they'd been using for their sandwiches, resulting in sandwiches more consistent in size. 

When New Orleans streetcar conductors went on strike in the 1920s, the Martin brothers agreed to feed the strikers for free, calling out, "Here comes another po-boy," any time a striker entered their shop. 

Thus, the sandwiches became known as po-boys.

Po-boy Bread

Sometimes, a shrimp poboy can transcend 🍤🙏🏻 That's what happened when @jayducote & @chuckp23 went to @oldetymegrocery in Lafayette recently. Read all about it at the link in our bio & listen to the embedded podcast. #ontheblog #lafayette #yummy #shrimppoboy #oldetymegrocery

A photo posted by Jay Ducote (@biteandbooze) on Mar 21, 2016 at 9:04am PDT

If you're chowing down on a po-boy at a restaurant in South Louisiana, there's a good chance the French bread you're eating came from Leidenheimer's in New Orleans. The Leidenheimer Baking Company, founded in 1896 in New Orleans by George Leidenheimer, a German immigrant, has been producing crispy New Orleans style French bread for the last hundred years. 

Crunchy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, the perfect loaf of French bread acts as a vehicle for other delicious ingredients. 

Po-boy Fixins

The Darrell's Special strikes again! It may not be pretty, but it's incredibly delicious. Have you ever had this @visitlakecharles famous #poboy? #tastelouisiana #foodpics #foodcoma #foodporn

A photo posted by Jay Ducote (@biteandbooze) on Mar 5, 2016 at 2:36pm PST

There's virtually no limit to what you'll find inside a po-boy. Fried shrimp, catfish and oyster po-boys tend to be what's on most menus, but roast beef and gravy and ham and cheese po-boys are popular with locals. Hot sausage, meatballs and even French fries can make an appearance on a po-boy, and dressed they include lettuce, tomato and mayo.

History of the Bánh Mì

The bánh mì represents the marriage of French and Vietnamese culture resulting from years of French colonial rule in Vietnam. This French-style baguette loaded with Vietnamese ingredients is often referred to as a Vietnamese po-boy in South Louisiana. In the 1970s, Vietnamese immigrants flocked to the United States to escape communism, and many chose to immigrate to Louisiana due to its Catholic missionaries and hot, wet climate. Today, Louisiana boasts a large Vietnamese population, and Louisianans are enamored with the exotic flavors of Vietnamese cuisine. 

Bánh Mì Bread

Love this shot @madeyefoodie captured of our Pork Belly Banh Mi--Korean braised belly, pâté, pickled carrots, cucumbers, cilantro on French served with our House made Chips #countryroads #gobr

A photo posted by City Pork Deli & Charcuterie (@city_pork) on Feb 2, 2016 at 3:35pm PST

The traditional bánh mì bread recipe calls for a mixture of Asian rice flour and wheat flour that results in a single serving of bread. While softer and more moist than typical po-boy bread, the crunchy, crispy exterior resembles that of French bread.

Dong Phuong Bakery is to bánh mì as Leidenheimer Baking Company is to the po-boy. Since the early 1980s this Vietnamese bakery has been providing bánh mì bread to Vietnamese restaurants across New Orleans. 

Bánh Mì Fixins

Pho and a Banh Mi. Thanks @dangsrestaurant! #pho #vietnamese #gobr #lunch #foodporn

A photo posted by Jay Ducote (@biteandbooze) on Dec 5, 2014 at 11:17am PST

Here's where the bánh mì differs from the po-boy: generally, bánh mì include a pate spread, fatty ham and roasted pork, mayonnaise (from the French), shredded carrot and radish, cucumber, cilantro and raw jalapeño. 

Bánh mì are also typically smaller than po-boys in size, making them perfect side dishes, snacks or light meals. 

Do you have a favorite po-boy? What about a favorite bánh mì? Let us know in the comments.

Spain: Street Food Bite and Booze of the World Cup

It's time for another delicious bite and booze along the street food guide to the FIFA World Cup 2014. The winners of the last World Cup are known for plates with bold flavors and colors. Spain is a country full of life, great food, and a plethora of libations. For this edition of the street food guide, we're going to take a look at the Bocadillo and the world renown sangria!

Photo Credit: thelatinkitchen.com

Bocadillo translated is sandwich. In America, we dress our sandwiches with lettuce, tomato, and various condiments; the Spanish have a more simplified approach and take delicious cured meats and fine cheese and sandwich them between fresh, artisan rolls. You can find these in delis all over Spain with endless combinations of flavors. I found a recipe for Bocadillo de Jamon Serrano y Manchego that would be perfect for watching a great match! Jamon Serrano is an air dried ham packed with flavor and Manchego cheese is a hard, white cheese that is slightly sharp and makes for a killer sandwich. I can't wait to have one of these!

Photo Credit: spanishviaskype.com

Sangria is a big hit all over the world. Typically served in pitchers as a table wine, Sangria is made by taking white or red wine and macerating fruit in the wine. The natural sweetness of the fruit enhances the favors of the wine. Typically citrus is used, but try using some Louisiana strawberries or peaches!

Uruguay: Street Food Bite and Booze of the 2014 World Cup

Cows and soccer are the main concerns of the natives on the next stop of the street food guide to the FIFA World Cup 2014. Uruguay (playing England at 2pm CDT), an extremely agrarian place, has more cow inhabitants than it does humans. Nestled between the two large, bold countries of Brazil and Argentina, Uruguay lives off of the land and has a fancy for grilled meats and futbol. Chivitos and the "Keep It Up" are on the menu today.

Photo Credit: epicurious.com

The popular Chivitos sandwich is a doozie stacked with steak, ham, pancetta, cheese, eggs and a bunch of other delicious accompaniments. It does have veggies so it's...balanced. Guaranteed to fill you up, this sammie is a meal hearty enough to feed the fittest soccer player, so don't snack too much during the match.

Photo Credit: theranking.com

The Uruguayans are actually big champagne and wine drinkers. The Keep It Up is a cocktail combining champagne, cognac, orange juice and bitters. Easy to make and easy to drink-- the fruitiness compliments the effervescence of the champagne.

Seriously Playful Food: Bread & Circus Provisions is a Welcomed Wildcard in the Lafayette Culinary Scene

The Chop Block Melt on Rye: Pork Cheek Pastrami, Corned Beef & Smoked Beef Tongue,
Slaw, Swiss and Celery Salt Mayo. Pictured with a Swamp Pop Noble Cane Cola.

Bread and Circus Provisions started out providing different preserves and sauces at a farmers market in Lafayette, LA. After a successful Kickstarter campaign, they now grace a new brick and mortar location that packs a lot of character. The term Bread & Circus comes from a Roman method of politically appeasing the masses, not with good policy, but instead with distractions such as food or entertainment.

Co-Owner and Chef Manny Augello prepping for dinner service

Inside you'll find a hostess stand/bar combo, shelves of their homemade preserves and sauces as well ask books about Lafayette's culinary scene and dinner series, a fresh cooler full of local veggies, a fridge full of Swamp Pop and a dining room full of atmosphere.

Owners Manny Augello and Abi Falgout are dedicated to sharing their love of food with Acadiana and it doesn't just come through, it slaps you in the face. Their infectious personalities and passion for what they do make their slamming food monumental in this community. I had the fortune of stopping by Bread & Circus while filming the Louisiana Culinary Trails project for Louisiana Travel. The place filled up quickly for dinner service packed and the food was rolling. I can definitely say that if you're looking for great, local, modern and amazing cuisine and environment, you need to check out Bread & Circus.

Pictured at the top of the post is a hearty, but tastefully balanced lunch. The Chop Block Melt, composed with different cuts of meat such as Pork Cheek Pastrami, Corned Beef & Smoked Beef Tongue, that provide savory and salty elements while the sandwich finishes with a fresh slaw gives that crisp clean crunch.

If you're a big fan of Asian style soups this is the one for you. The Boneless Pork Rib Ramen has a broth that knocks your flavor socks off. Rich, but light at the same time; the savory tones from the pork spark up garlic spikes throughout sips. The udon noodles and sprouts absorb the flavor well while the pickled quail egg has a tiny kick that sends the dish over the top.

Boneless Pork Rib Ramen: Soy Braised, Miso Broth, Udon Noodles, Pickled Quail Egg and Sprouts.

If you aren't used to eating things like beef tongue and lamb heart, don't be freaked out. The Braised Heart Tacos are reminiscent beef fajitas with a stew meat-type texture and sautéed onions. The feta is saltier than a normal taco cheese and brightens up the dish. Add a few sprigs of fresh cilantro and a squeeze of lime and you've got a fiesta!

Braised Heart Taco: Slow Cooked Lamb Heart, Cilantro, Curtido, Lime, and Feta.
Pictured with a Parish Brewing Co. Canebrake.

Chef Manny Augello cares about his diners. To prove it he makes each batch of noodles for the House-Made Pasta Carbonara fresh to order. Some say that's crazy, I say it's genius...and delicious. Savory, cheesy, tangy. Get it and stick your head through the window to watch him make the pasta by hand, from scratch, and to order.

House-Made Pasta* Carbonara: Pork Cheek, Black Pepper Butter, Pea Shoots, Goat's Milk Cheddar, and Toasted Breadcrumbs. *Pasta Noodles made Fresh to order.

PCP Home Fries. Translation: cheese fries on steroids. Instead of the basic popular girl, bacon, Bread & Circus chose the sexy cool nerd with more substance: pork cheek pastrami. Topped with tangy swiss and a garlicky finish, these fries are more than satisfactory.

PCP Home Fries: Pork Cheek Pastrami, Garlic, Smoked Meat Gravy, and Melted Swiss.

Not your mom's charcuterie board, Bread & Circus keeps a well curated selection of cuts for their board lovers. The saltiness of the meats with the cream of the mozzarella provides your taste buds with balance... add stone ground mustard for a zingy surprise! 

B&C Charcuterie Board: Stone Ground Mustard, Fresh Mozzarella, Assorted cuts of Pork, and Salmon.

Crispy-tarty goodness, Fried Green Tomatoes at Bread & Circus Provisions is the best combination of this classic dish I've had in quite some time. The natural tanginess of the tomatoes and the smooth savory tasso tartar sauce sustains this perpetual mouth yin and yang...until it's gone.

Fried Green Tomatoes: Panko Crusted, Tasso Tartar Sauce, and Crab Claw Relish.

Don't be afraid of the rawness or the slightly-different-than-what-you're-used-to texture of the Lamb Tartar. The lamb is mixed with sweet red onions and spices that lend a hand to this creatively yet literally plated dish. Creaminess from the raw quail egg yolk acts as a thicker substance and tangy Tabasco house mayo kicks the flavors up another notch. Slap on some crunchy rye bread and it's a date. I love lamb.

Lamb Tartar: Raw Finely Diced Lamp, Tabasco House Mayo, Raw Quail Egg and Onion on Rye.

Charcuterie Defined at Baton Rouge's City Pork

City Pork Deli & Charcuterie in Baton Rouge

Fairly new on the Baton Rouge scene, City Pork’s opening in December 2013 was highly anticipated... so much so that they made my 2013 list of the top 10 new bars and restaurants in the Capital City despite not even being open one month. With the culture and history that surrounds the art of charcuterie, I wanted to see how legitimate their practices would be. 

For those of you who aren't sure

about charcuterie, it’s simply defined as the art of salting, smoking, and preserving meats; and these guys know how to do it. They cure their own meats in house and have them for sale on charcuterie boards and as to-go options. While they carry familiar favorites like andouille, tasso, boudin, and bacon, they also have some European favorites like bolognas, summer sausages, and prosciutto.

Charcuterie defined at Baton Rouge's City Pork

Charcuterie aside, City Pork is an inspiring deli. They feature a nice handful of sandwiches to choose from and, while I haven’t had them all at this point, I've been impressed with each one. Bread is sourced locally from Chef Eric Arceneaux at the City Club in Baton Rouge and Poupart's Bakery in Lafayette. The City Club is pretty spot on with their house cured bacon and smoked turkey breast. If I’m being honest, it’s the bacon... I can’t turn it down. There are two options to try the bacon: the City Club and the BLT. It is hard to choose a favorite though, especially with the Cubano, Big Pig, and New Yorker staring you in the face. Each sandwich comes with a side of their homemade potato chips, or you can check out soup options like their stunningly delicious tomato basil soup.

The Big Pig

The Cubano

I usually have to think about what I’m getting before I go in so I don’t hold up the line, which can be out of the door at lunch time most days. Don’t worry though, there is a quaint atmosphere inside with adequate seating and come spring the little patio will be a welcome sight. I know I’m looking forward to the spring weather and trying their duck confit salad on the patio with a signature cocktail or cold Tin Roof brew as well as a cheese or charcuterie board. Sounds like happy hour to me. Yes, I said happy hour! From 4-7pm City Pork has some awesome specials on beer, wine, and their cheese or charcuterie boards.

The New Yorker with Pastrami

The smell of bacon and cured deliciousness when you walk in the door is phenomenal. You can tell by the enthusiasm of the staff how passionate they are about what they’re offering to the city of Baton Rouge. City Pork is full of good eats, great meats, and thirst-quenching drinks. If you aren't in the mood for an adult beverage, try a Swamp Pop made in Lafayette with pure cane sugar. If you haven’t had the chance to swing by, make time. And do it soon.

Another Pro Tip: Don’t skip out on the pickles they give you with the sandwich or boards. They are made in house and can turn a pickle hater like me into a lush. Noteworthy for sure.

Peameal Bacon for the Win

St. Lawrence Market in Toronto

While in Toronto with Visit Baton Rouge a little while back I had a golden opportunity to go to the St. Lawrence Market, one of the largest and highest rated food and farmers markets in the world. I took a walk down construction-riddled Front Street until I arrived at my destination. Passing a Starbucks, Lonestar Grill, Quizno’s, and Chipotle, I felt right in the middle of Anywhere, USA. However, once I got to the St. Lawrence Market, I knew I had arrived somewhere at least a little different. The market is full of vendors slinging fresh seafood, meats, produce, cheeses, and much more. My sources told me to keep an eye out for the famous Peameal Bacon on a Bun, the real true Canadian bacon. I found what I had been looking for at the Carousel Bakery booth but noticed that they seemed to be operating under a cash-only policy. Not having exchanged my dollars for… dollars, I found an ATM and withdrew some Queens. I got my peameal bacon and a sense of Canadian pride overwhelmed me.

Carousel Bakery

This bacon was unlike anything I've ever eaten before. It is not the same bacon that we put on our pizza and call Canadian bacon. This bacon, the peameal bacon from Carousel Bakery at the St. Lawrence Market in downtown Toronto, is legit. Salty, fatty, and ever so porky, the layers of swine melted in my mouth as I devoured the sandwich on my way out the market with a fresh brew of fair trade coffee in my hand. The bread held the layers of bacon together until the entire sandwich filled my stomach and I licked my fingers to savor every morsel of flavor that I could.

Peameal Bacon Sandwich

Toronto's Skyline from the CN Tower

926-Muff... the Name and the Number

Using the phone number in the business name... brilliant.  Offering delivery in the 70808, even more so.  But the question is, can they make a good muffaletta?  Of course, I had to see.  I swung by the little joint on Congress at Perkins the other day and met owner Leigh Anne Town.  With a kind smile and welcoming opening of the walk-up window, Leigh Anne asked what she could get for me.

I ordered a half-muffaletta.  The we chatted for a bit about how I heard about the place (driving by up and down Perkins) and other things that I might happen to do or not do in the food world of Baton Rouge.  Then I got my sandwich, took it home, and scarfed it down, but not before snapping a picture.  Well, kinda.

The 926-Muff sandwich rested on the foundation of Leidenheimer muffaletta bread.  Add that to the traditional ingredients of olive salad, salami, ham, mortadella, and provolone, and you certainly had an authentic, Central Grocery style concoction.  Leigh Anne also adds the option of running the muffaletta through a conveyor oven, if desired.  I opted for the heat in order to crisp the bread and melt the cheese.  Overall it definitely proved to be a satisfying sandwich.  Since they'll deliver to my house, I'll probably eat quite a few of them.  By no means will it replace the occasional trip out to Anthony's Italian Deli on Florida Blvd. for what I believe to be the best muffaletta on the planet, but 926-Muff is definitely a welcome addition to the Baton Rouge food scene.   

A Couple Pints at The Barley Oak

Nola Irish Channel Stout

Parish Envie Pale Ale

If anybody out there reading this post doesn't know about The Barley Oak in Mandeville, you're sadly missing out on one of the best craft beer bars in Louisiana.  Sitting right on the Northshore of Lake Pontchartrain, this "Old World Draught Haus" offers a lovely view, and I'm not just talking about their tap handles.  While passing through recently, I decided that I ought to stop and have a few pints as well as a little lunch.  Fortunately for me, they had a couple local brews that are actually quite rare.  I began with the seasonal Irish Channel Stout from Nola.  The Barley Oak had it on a Nitro tap.  The dark, delicious stout poured out with a gorgeously cascading tan head.  The beer is absolutely my kind of brew.  It is rich and flavorful yet ridiculously drinkable and refreshing to me.  I challenge anybody who has a thing against "dark beer" to grab a pint of this stout if they ever see it out.  Upon finishing my pint of stout, I noticed a tap handle from the Parish Brewing Company that did not say Canebrake.  I asked Vanessa behind the bar, who immediately poured me a Parish Envie Pale Ale before I could even ask.  This beer, which really hasn't been released yet to the masses, was leftover (seemingly just for me) from a special tapping.  I've had this beer from Andrew Godley before, but never in a bar.  It is an American Pale Ale which certainly comes across as hoppy but not quite as out of balance towards bitter as a lot of IPAs do.  I found the Envie to be a great beer-drinker's-beer.  If you like craft beer, then it'll be for you.  And if you don't, then I'm surprised you're reading this blog!

A Reuben at The Barley Oak

For some bites to go with my booze, I opted for The Barley Oak's Reuben sandwich.  The corned beef with Swiss and sauerkraut on marble rye definitely did the trick.  I like sandwiches that combine textures and flavors in a simple yet harmonious way.  Sometimes a sandwich can be a little underrated, but never in my book if it is grub like this!  Thanks Barley Oak.  I'll be back for more bite and booze soon!

Street Breads - Not a Bakery, a Sandwich Shop with Really Good Bread!

Mexico City Chicken & Chipotle

I recently got treated to a whirlwind of flavor in Lake Charles, LA at a sandwich shop called Street Breads.  The concept is pretty simple: make really good sandwiches.  So, staying true to that, the model is anti-Subway as a sandwich shop can be.  Street Breads uses artisan breads, several of which are vegan and preservative free.  All toppings and sauces are made daily in house.  Josh Priola, owner of Street Breads, prides himself on not having to advertise catchy words like "fresh" or "healthy."  "When you eat it, you'll know," Josh told me.  While his launch restaurant is in Lake Charles, Josh is dreaming bigger.  "I want to flip the current sandwich model built on margins and profit," he explained.  "Theses sandwiches are real.  The ingredients are honest.  I just let them speak for themselves."

St. Paul's Pizza

The Mexico City Chicken & Chipotle sandwich certainly took the right steps towards proving his point.  The chipotle packed just the right amount of kick and the basil pecan pesto freakin rocks.  Even the cucumbers were a brilliant, crunchy veggie choice that provided a textural balance between the halves soft Ciabatta bread.

Also impressive was the St. Paul's Pizza.  I didn't see this one coming.  At first glance of the menu board, it seemed like the pizzas were out of place.  The reduced price pita sandwiches, sure, but pizzas as well?  It seemed like a Subway-esque move... until I tried it.  Again using the basil pecan pesto, the square-shaped pie really hit the spot.  Topped with large Louisiana shrimp and plenty of cheese to go along with the pesto and roasted portabellas, I'd eat this again and again.

Feta Potato Salad

Street Breads also has some sides other than chips.  The feta potato salad was scrumptious, and paired very well with my next sandwich, the Deep South Pork & Slaw.  The tasty creation featured generous portions of pulled pork, cheddar cheese, Cajun remoulade, and "Street" slaw on rustic club bread.  I started off nervous that the pork to slaw ratio wouldn't quite be to my preferred balance, but once I bit into the sandwich those fears went away. The slaw and remoulade danced with the pork as the crusty bread held it all together.  It really ended up being one of my favorite sandwiches of the day (toss up with the Mexico City). 


I also got a taste of the Mediterranean Portabella on Focaccia as well as the Southwest Salad Wrap with Asiago, roasted corn relish, and ancho ranch dressing.  The sauces and dressings on all the Street Breads sandwiches really set them apart.  I wasn't able to try any of the pitas or breakfast sandwiches, but I'm sure they are all rather tasty as well.  As for me... dessert beckoned.  

Deep South Pork & Slaw

My final treat from Josh came in the form of Bread Pudding with Creme Anglaise.  The hot, sticky dessert couple please the palate of anybody with a sweet tooth.


Street Breads is in the process of taking Lake Charles by storm.  The sandwich shop is really filling a niche that had been longing for some artisan sandwiches and a restaurateur that really gave a crap about their product.  It seems like Josh's next move might be to open a couple other South Louisiana locations... like perhaps Lafayette and Baton Rouge.  I know I certainly wouldn't object.  This kind of attention-to-detail sandwich spot, priced appropriately between a Subway and a Panera Bread, is exactly what Baton Rouge needs.  For now though, go see them in Lake Charles!

Pizza Magic at Mama Della's

Mama Della’s New York City Pizzeria is the new place to get a slice in town. True New York style pizza is not easy to come by in Baton Rouge, and best I can tell, Mama Della's does it right. “I’m into what’s going on in your mouth,” owner and chef Barry Kalt told me as he joined my table for a brief moment in between pizza orders. Born and raised in New York City, Kalt knows what it takes to make the authentic New York style pies that are coveted across the country. He started in the restaurant business 46 years ago and has worked in various venues including restaurants, casinos, and even submarines. All of this experience has left him with the knowledge and talent to run a successful restaurant while sticking to his roots. All of the pizzas at Mama Della’s are handmade and the recipes come from different members of Kalt’s family. Even the logo is a picture of his mother, Adelle. While the chef is happy to discuss his life and experiences, he’d rather talk about his pizzas and the steps that go into making them. Because after all, “it’s all about the food.”

While at Mama Della’s I tried two of the favorite items on the menu. I'll get to the pizza in a bit. Besides serving NY pies, Kalt also fixes up Italian-style hero sandwiches. I opted for the chicken parm. Mama Della’s does a pretty good job on this simple sandwich. A fried chicken cutlet is served on soft Italian bread with mozzarella and Parmesan cheese. What makes the sandwich so special is Chef Leonardo’s marinara sauce, which is named after Kalt’s father. If pizza isn’t for you, you’re sure to find something on the menu that is true to New York style.

The star of my meal was one of Chef’s favorites, a classic margharita pizza. The simple pie only contains four elements: crust, tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil. Complexity isn't needed here. It’s the quality of the ingredients that make this Mama Della specialty so good. Kalt hand tosses the dough for all of the pizzas and this extra step is evident in the food that he serves. The crust doesn’t overshadow the rest of the pizza, which is the way a classic New York style pie should be served. It’s thin enough to have a crunch but thick enough to hold the few ingredients and complement the flavors. But that's where the margharita pizza ends its common ties. There’s no sauce on Chef Kalt’s signature creation. The tomatoes, which come from an area in Italy near Pompeii, have a sweetness and tang which pair excellently with the mozzarella. They alone make up the tomato portion of the pizza. And they are a topping unto themselves. Throw on a little basil, and you have a fairly authentic pizza! Chef Kalt doesn’t cut any corners when it comes making his pizzas. “If I can’t get the ingredients I want, I don’t serve that pizza. It’s as simple as that. I’m not going to compromise the quality of my pizza in order to make more money,” said Kalt.

While there are no exceptions when it comes to the ingredients of his pizzas, Chef Kalt is willing to make changes for a customer. “I go the extra mile to make sure folks are taken care of,” he told me. Just please don't ask him to add pepperoni and Italian sausage to a margharita pizza. I'm sure he'd do it, but the man might die a little inside.

When you walk into Mama Della’s it may not seem like anything too special. It’s a standard in and out restaurant with bar stools and red checkered table cloths. Chef Kalt serves his pizza on paper plates with plastic utensils for those who may need them for some bizarre reason. In New York City they don’t eat their pizza with forks so he doesn’t serve it that way here either. His attention to quality and authenticity are attributes that give a restaurant staying power. Let's hope this one lasts.

If you’re looking for classic New York style pizza, the only thing Mama Della’s is missing is the Statue of Liberty in the background. Alright, so it may not have quite been Lombardi's pie coming out of a coal oven in Manhattan, but I can definitely add it to my list of go-to pizza restaurants in Baton Rouge. Next time you’re in the mood for a slice, avoid a chain and try a new, local pizzeria. I don't think you'll regret it.

Blown Away at Cochon Lafayette

Boudin and Pickles at Cochon Lafayette

First of all, allow me to congratulate Chef Donald Link for his 2012 James Beard Awards "Outstanding Chef" nomination.  The Louisiana chef known widely for his work with the pig at Cochon, Herbsaint, Calcasieu, and Butcher in New Orleans has certainly earned his bid at the most elite title in American cuisine.  Just this past Fall, Chef Link opened up a new location closer to his Cajun Country home: Cochon Lafayette.

I swung by the Acadiana hotspot to check it out for the first time during a recent lunch.  My buddy Tommy Talley and Cochon bartender Brian Thom both joined me at the bar as we had some beers, multiple appetizers, a couple sandwiches, a tour of the facility, and then some whiskey.

Tin Roof Voodoo Bengal Pale Ale

Cochon Lafayette sits along the new water-front development in Lafayette's River Ranch area.  With the brand new construction, they did a remarkable job of making the restaurant feel slightly rustic and rather comfortable.  The open floor plan including high ceilings, a showroom kitchen, and plenty of large windows and  wood accents made me feel right at home.  I took a seat at the bar and rejoiced at the Louisiana beer on tap.  Though they happened to be out of Lafayette's own Parish Canebrake, I was able to get a Tin Roof Voodoo Bengal.  I drank happily.

Braised Pork Cheeks and Other Goodies

Manager Brian Fuller started us off with some of Chef Link's signature boudin.  Rather than steaming the boudin like most truck stops would do, the Cochon secret is to bake the boudin in a relatively low oven - around 275 degrees - in order to crisp up the skin and make it crack as you bite into it.  Served with some house-made pickles that I could actually tolerate, this pork and rice concoction is what many Cajun dreams are made of!

Fried Chicken Livers on Pepper Jelly Toast

Our next appetizer consisted of braised pork cheeks atop spoonbread with baby lima beans and crushed herbs.  The cheeks had that fabulous fork-tender, melt-in-your-mouth kind of texture that proper braising will give.

The pork cheeks were followed by fried chicken livers on top of pepper jelly toast.  I thoroughly enjoyed this dish.  It is easy to understand why chicken livers aren't for everyone, but being the adventurous food spirit that I am, I scarfed down one after another.  The pepper jelly went wonderfully with the livers in order to add some sweet and spicy flavors to the golden fried delicacies.

Cochon Lafayette's Oyster and Bacon Sandwich

Another Look at the Oyster and Bacon Sandwich

Choosing an entree did not prove to be an easy task.  At the suggestion of Brian, I opted for the oyster and bacon sandwich.  The BLT with fried oysters turned out to be a great decision.  They fresh Louisiana oysters were deliciously fried in a hearty batter and placed with the bacon, lettuce, and tomatoes between two slices of buttery toast.  Each bite bustled with textures and flavors that made one incredible sandwich... and I do like sandwiches!

Selection of Whiskeys that I tasted at Cochon Lafayette

After the meal, we began talking about Raise a Glass and our Whiskeys of the World Tournament.  I realized that Cochon Lafayette had quite a few whiskey varieties that were not in the tournament, and several rye whiskeys that I had never tried before.  So what else were we to do other than hold a whiskey tasting right there on the spot?  And don't forget the moonshine, as seen on the left.  After downing some whiskey and eating all of that glorious food (don't worry, it was captured on video for "I'm Not Trying to be an Underwear Model"), I got a tour of the Cochon Lafayette terrace with their herb garden, their fully stocked kitchen, and the outdoor smokestack with Chef de Cuisine Kyle Waters.  The restaurant is truly an impressive facility, and I have a feeling that I'll be back fairly often!